Visit Texas’ Own Hank the Cowdog

“Every ranch pickup ought to have at least one cow dog in the back,

barking at every passing truck.” – Hank the Cowdog, Ranch Life Book No. 1

 

   I had to smile when I read that this Friday is National Dog Appreciation Day . . . because in my world, every day is dog appreciation day!

   And as a Texan, what better dog to send some appreciation to than the star of the humorous mystery novel series Hank the Cow Dog.

   If you aren’t familiar with  Hank, you’re in for a treat. This hysterical cow dog, or “Head of Ranch Security” as he prefers to be called, has a slew of doggone fun adventures among other characters that include Pete the Barn Cat, Slim Chance and Sally May – all created by Texas Literary Hall of Fame inductee John R. Erickson.

   The books have sold over 9 million worldwide! Pretty darn good for an old dog! My daughter and I read dozens of them when she was little, and I’ve lost count of how many I’ve gifted to other kids.

   Do you have to be a kid or a Texan to get a kick out of Hank’s stories? Nope! People as far away as Taiwan are fans. But as long as you’re reading one, why not read it aloud to the nearest child? That will brighten both your days!

   Erickson, whose hometown is Perryton, grew up in the Panhandle so his description of characters and written version of a Texas twang ring true. He got his literary start with San Angelo’s Livestock Weekly in the 1980s, mentored by another Texas writer named Elmer Kelton.

   Being a long time fan of these books, if you think I made it a point to stop on a recent trip to San Angelo just to see an ode to Hank . . . well, you’d be right. A bronze statue of the Lone Star State’s beloved canine sits on a ledge in Heritage Park at the corner of West Twohig and Oakes Streets. Sculpted by San Antonio artist Raul Ruiz in 2018, he looks right at home with the other features of the pocket park displayed to honor the ranching and agricultural heritage of the state.

   There’s a sculpture of a rancher and his trusty horse, native plants, a vintage cistern system and plenty of space to sit for a spell in the shade of a leaf-shaped overhang that provides an escape from the Texas sun. The park is open to the public daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

   If you want to make a quick visit to one more spot in town honoring Lone Star literature, swing by the mural by Stylie Read of Elmer Stephen Kelton – Erickson’s mentor –  author of over 50 western novels. It’s at 118 South Chadbourne Street.

   Now that school’s back in session, if your child is looking to add to their library list, they might just want to check out one of the over 70 stories about this scruffy, scrappy hound. The Texas tails…um, tales… are worth howling about.



22 Things to Do on a Rainy Day in Galveston

   The best laid plans . . . just might have to be “adjusted” due to unexpected weather. If you’re in Galveston on vacation and the clouds try to rain on your parade – don’t worry. There are plenty of ways to entertain yourself, your friends and family inside. Here are a few ideas to consider.

   As always, be sure to call ahead to confirm location hours and if they are open as the weather may be a factor to their site as well.

   Paid parking on the island is handled through the “paybyphone” app, and you’ll simplify your visit by setting it up ahead of time. Download the app, set it up with your license plate and credit card number and you’re good to go!

 

GALVESTON RAILROAD MUSEUM

2602 Santa Fe Place, 409-765-5700

https://galvestonrrmuseum.org

Open Daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Admission

Free parking in the rear lot; app-paid street parking and paid lot parking alongside building.

   Interesting museum about the history of rail travel. Covered walkways between railcars outside. Explore open rail cars from different eras, including the historic Bonnie Brook Rail Car once owned by comedian/actor Jackie Gleason.

 

OCEAN STAR OFFSHORE DRILLING RIG & MUSEUM

20th Street & Harborside, 409-766-7827

https://www.oceanstaroec.com/museum/

Open Daily (except Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve & Christmas Day) from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Admission

Paid parking lots, or app-paid street parking along the Strand

   The Ocean Star is retired jack-up drilling rig that operated in the Gulf of Mexico from 1969 to 1984 and drilled over 200 wells during that timeframe. In 1995, the OEC purchased the Ocean Star, and after lengthy refurbishment, opened it as a museum in 1997.
The museum is designed to be a self-guided facility with videos, information, interactive exhibits throughout, and takes most visitors about 1.5 hours to tour completely.

BRYAN MUSEUM

1315 21st Street, 409-632-7685

https://thebryanmuseum.org

Closed Monday & Tuesday. Other days open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Thursdays until 7 p.m.)

Admission

Free onsite parking for visitors off Avenue M, and street parking surrounding museum.

   The Bryan Collection is the home of one of the world’s largest collections of historical artifacts, documents, and artwork relating to Texas and the American West.

 

1892 BISHOP’S PALACE

1402 Broadway, 409-762-2475

https://www.galvestonhistory.org/sites/1892-bishops-palace

Self-guided tours daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last ticket sold at 4 p.m.)

Admission

Free street parking available

   Formerly the home of the Gresham family and later owned by the Catholic diocese, it’s one of the most significant Victorian residences in the country.

 

MOODY MANSION / CHILDREN’S MUSEUM

2618 Broadway, 409-762-7668

https://www.moodymansion.org

Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last tickets sold at 4 p.m.)

Admission

  One of the attractions I most often recommend on the island, this beautiful mansion is fully furnished and gives a clear impression of what life for the wealthy was like in Galveston’s Gilded Age.

   Be sure to check out the antique car collection on site.

 

CLAY CUP STUDIOS

2219 Postoffice Street, 409-762-CLAY

https://www.claycupstudios.com/walkin

Check website for days and hours, as they vary.

   In addition to walk-in-and-choose projects at this paint-your-own pottery studio, be sure to check their schedule for special classes.

 

LA KING’S CONFECTIONERY

2323 Strand, 409-762-6100

https://lakingsconfectionery.com

Sunday through Thursday, 11:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.; Friday 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.; Saturday 11:00 to 9:00 p.m.

   Old-fashioned candy counter and ice cream parlor. They’re famous for their salt water taffy. Check their website and Facebook page for time of their free taffy pulling demonstrations, using a machine over 100 years old. See something interesting in the candy case? Ask for a free sample. Ice cream is made from Galveston’s original Purity ice cream recipe.

 

GALVESTON COUNTY MUSEUM

722 21st Street in the courthouse, 409-766-2340

https://galvestoncomuseum.wixsite.com/museum/

Open Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Free admission.

   A small but fascinating collection with artifacts from Galveston’s past.

 

ROSENBERG LIBRARY MUSEUM

1900 Storm Exhibit

2310 Sealy Avenue

Monday, Friday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; Tuesday-Thursday, 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sunday closed.Parking is free behind the library and across the street on Sealy Avenue.

A curated gathering of photographs of the aftermath of the 1900 Storm, as well as audio recordings of interviews with storm survivors.

 

ESCAPE THE ISLAND (Escape Room)

910 21st Street, 409-443-5092

https://escapetheisland.com

   Visit their website to book a time. Five different themed escape rooms to choose from will keep your family or group entertained for an hour or so of interactive fun.

 

SCHLITTERBAHN WATER PARK (indoor section)

2109 Gene Lucas Blvd. (next to Moody Gardens), 409-770-9283

https://www.schlitterbahn.com/galveston/schedule

Admission

Check website for dates and hours

   Indoor portion of park is great even on rainy days. Free parking.

 

MOODY GARDENS RAINFOREST / AQUARIUM / 3D MOVIE THEATER

One Hope Blvd., 409-744-4673

https://www.moodygardens.com/

Admission

Free Parking

   Check website for hours and special events, which change seasonally. Fascinating for all ages, their year-round attractions are usually open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

 

GALVESTON BOOKSHOP

317 23rd Street, 409-750-8200

http://galvestonbookshop.com

Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Street parking available (pay on parking app, see information above)

   Wandering through a fully-stocked bookshop is one of my favorite rainy day activities, and this one has selections for everyone in the family. Special section of titles about Galveston, too (including all four of my books). Many local authors like me make sure their books at the GB are personally signed, so they make nice souvenirs and gifts as well.

 

GRAND GALVEZ HOTEL GHOST TOUR (all indoor tour)

2024 Seawall,  Call ahead to make reservations. 409-765-7721, option 1

Thursdays at 5 p.m. and Fridays at 4 p.m.

Fee.

   Led by long time Galvez concierge Melissa Hall, who has gathered stories from staff and guests for years. 90-minute family friendly tour.

 

GRAND 1894 OPERA HOUSE

2020 Postoffice Street, 409-765-1894

http://www.thegrand.com

   Self-guided and guided tours of an exquisite theater from the turn of the last century. Call for details.

 


TOUJOUSE BAR at TREMONT HOUSE

2300 Ships Mechanic Row,409-763-0300

https://www.thetremonthouse.com

Paid valet parking available. Paid (via app – details above) street parking, free after 6 p.m.

   Sit at a beautifully carved mahogany bar whose history reaches back over a century, and enjoy hand-crafted cocktails. Occasional live music. Call for further details.

 

 

PIRATES, LEGENDS OF THE GULF COAST/HAUNTED MAYFIELD MANOR

2313 Harborside Drive, 409-762-6677

https://www.hauntedmayfieldmanor.com

   Year-round haunted house with live actors, and a pirate museum (separate attractions.) Admission.

 

GALVESTON ARTS CENTER

2127 Strand, 409-763-2403

https://www.galvestonartscenter.org

Wednesday through Sunday, Noon to 5 p.m. (Closed on federal holidays)

Free admission

   Exhibits a diverse array of artwork in all mediums. Family friendly. Check their website and Facebook page for occasional workshops.

 

GRAND GALVEZ DAY SPA

2024 Seawall,  409-515-2154

https://www.hotelgalvez.com/galveston-spa

   Treat yourself to a little (or a lot of) pampering at Galveston’s “Queen of the Gulf.”

 

ANTIQUING! Days and hours of antique shops on the island vary widely. Please call each shop or visit their website for specifics.

Antique Warehouse

423 25th Street, 409-762-8620

https://www.facebook.com/AntiqueWarehouseGalveston/

Somewhere in Time

124 20 (at Strand), 409-6844

https://somewhereintimeantiques.com

Big House Antiques

2212 Mechanic, 409-762-0559

https://www.facebook.com/Big-House-Antiques-168427386500765/

St. John Antiques

2001 Postoffice, 409-443-5366

http://www.stjohnantiques.com

Antiques Pavilion

2222 Postoffice, 409-443-5500

https://antiquepaviliongalveston.com

 

TROLLEY RIDES

https://www.galvestontrolley.com

$1 for adults, accompanied minors free

You can still see some of the sights around the Island – rain or not – on a fun  ride along a Seawall Loop, Downtown Loop or Historic Rail Trolley.

Check website for route, times and days, which vary by season.

 

   And of course … if it’s a stormy night on the island, it’s a great time to curl up with my book “Ghosts of Galveston” for some tales of those who’ve never quite left the shores. The version I wrote for middle school readers, “Ghostly Tales of Galveston” is a good choice for families. (Available at the Galveston Bookshop, Tina’s on the Strand, The Admiralty and amazon.com)

   When the weather clears, I hope you’ll join me for one of my walking tours. Information on those HERE.

 

Happy Trails! Texas Independence Trail Riders

 

   Texas Trail Rides are a Houston tradition in all the best ways! They celebrate history, get people outdoors, involve animals (yes, please!), and bring families together.

 

  Yesterday I met up with the Texas Independence Trail Riders, one of eleven rides who make their way to Houston in time for the Houston Rodeo Parade. After having no rodeo last year, this year’s ride seems like a special celebration.

 

  True to the Texas spirit, the trail rides originated due to a bit of bragging, a dare, and a sense of fun. In 1952 the mayor of Brenham, Reese Lockett, shared stories about his younger years on a ranch when they drove cattle from Central Texas winter pastures to the coastal salt grasses in warmer weather.

   Listening to the tales, a group of Houston journalists and rodeo officials dared him to retrace the old trail from Brenham to Houston in time for that year’s rodeo, and he accepted. The ride was shared with the public by a television reporter who went along for the ride in a covered wagon.

   That first ride stirred up a wave of nostalgia for the bygone days of Texas, and the next year a group of about 80 ranchers and cowboys (all men) gathered together to ride the Salt Grass Trail. By the following year 800 people wanted to be a part of this Romantic re-enactment.

   Today, thousands of people (men, women and children) participate in the 11 trail rides that wind along their own specific routes from all over Texas and Louisiana covering a cumulative 1,300 miles! The Valley Lodge Trail, at 71.5 miles, is the shortest. The Mission Trail ride covers 239 miles between San Antonio and Houston, winning the prize for longest ride.

   The fun thing for those of us not lucky enough to saddle up and ride along is that the groups make many stops along the way. A quick check of the trail maps on rodeohouston.com will reveal which ride passes closest to you and the locations of their planned stops.

   The Texas Independence Trail Riders pass through my area and that, with the combination of the fact that they were founded in my birth year, makes it a must-see on my calendar every year. And honestly . . . where else are you going to be able to see a trail ride pass the space shuttle?

   It’s such fun to see multiple generations enjoying the experience, all of the wonderful Western wear, three century-old wagons, people of all ages coming out to see them and – of course – all of the animals. This particular ride works year-round to support special needs children, Texas EquuSearch and families in need. Many of the horses on their ride are actually rescued animals.

 

  The rides also stop at local schools so that children can experience the animals, wagons and participants. I was with them yesterday when they made one of these stops and I cannot overstate the joy on the faces of the children – and their teachers.

   I have a huge amount of respect for the families that carry on this tradition. Many have to take time off from work and other obligations to participate. Along the multiple day rides they camp out in a variety of locations, and there always seem to be a few “weather challenges.” But whatever it takes, they all seem to do it with a smile and are ready to share a wave and a chat to visitors along the way.

   Happy Trails!


Valentine: A Tiny Town with a Big Heart

   There’s a tiny town in far west Texas that really gets to the heart of things…and its name says it all: Valentine. The city limits sign lists its population as 217, but anyone who lives there will tell you that’s an exaggeration.

   This time of year Valentine’s small post office is bustling, processing thousands of pieces of mail from all over the world – including 30 foreign countries. Surprised? You see, it’s become a tradition to send Valentines through the town’s post office so they receive special, customized romantic post marks that change every year. You can find all the details about that in one of my earlier blog posts, HERE.

Valentine, Texas Post Office

   Last year I sent my own round of Valentines through the post office, and this year I was happy to finally get to see the post office halfway between Marfa and Van Horn in person.

   There are two versions of the story about how Valentine got its name, and locals happily embrace both. When a Southern Pacific Railroad crew finished laying tracks in 1882, they needed to establish a stopping point for fuel. Since it was Valentine’s Day, they named the station Valentine. Of course, it didn’t hurt that the president of Wells Fargo and a significant stock holder in the railroad was named John Valentine – so they could easily say it was in his honor as well.

   Trains began running through the town in 1883, and in 1886 its now infamous post office was established.

   By 1890, Valentine boasted about 100 citizens, two saloons, a general store, a hotel and a meat market. Ranchers in the area took advantage of the railroad to ship cattle out of town to markets.

   The settlement has the unusual distinction of being the site of the largest earthquake known to have occurred in Texas. At 5:40 a.m. on August 16, 1931 a 6.5 magnitude quake really shook things up, damaging every building and even rotating gravestones in the local cemetery.

   By the 1950s though, roadways and trucking were becoming more established and led to the demise of Valentine’s rail depot…and eventually local businesses. One that managed to stay open for years was a small café, where James Dean frequently ate while filming the 1956 movie “Giant” with Elizabeth Taylor and Rock Hudson nearby. Pretty big excitement for a small, dusty town.

James Dean at the Cafe

   Today Valentine looks a lot more like a classic ghost town, although it does still have living residents and even its own school. To find the post office you’ll need to drive west all the way (and yes, it only takes a minute) through Valentine past abandoned buildings, and the post office is on your right just at the edge of town.

   If you can’t visit Valentine for yourself, mark your calendar to send your mail their way several weeks before their namesake holiday next year. It’s a sweetly unique Texas tradition.


Battle of Galveston Commemoration 2022

   It was a brisk morning on Saturday, but luckily the sun was shining for the annual commemoration ceremony at Galveston’s Trinity Episcopal Cemtery for those lost in the Battle of Galveston. The event was hosted by the Edward Lea Camp of the Sons of Union Veterans of the Civil War. Thank you to everyone who came from near and far to attend.

   The ceremony takes place each January and is free for the public to attend. You can find out more about Edward Lea, the naval officer whose marker the event centers around HERE.

   The following are some photos from yesterday’s ceremony.

Irish Castle or Texas Courthouse? It’s Both!

   Ahhhh, romantic Irish castles. Something that makes this Irish lady’s heart swoon. But wait…this is no castle at all. It’s actually the Shelby County Courthouse in far east Texas!

   Architect John Joseph Emmett Gibson, a native of Ireland who was hired to design the building in Center Texas in 1883, wanted to give his masterpiece the appearance of the castles of his homeland complete with turrets, towers and even secret passageways.

   Gibson not only designed and oversaw the construction of the two-story Romanesque Revival courthouse, he had over two million bricks specially made for the project. The mortar was made from sand carried from forty miles away in Louisiana by oxcarts. The glass, vents, and diamond-shaped braces also made the journey from New Orleans and other Southern ports before being transported by oxen.

   It was a grand undertaking that took two years to complete, but has provided a jewel of a centerpiece to the town square for generations.

 

   A total of twelve fireplace chimneys surround the top of the beautiful structure like a crown. Accented with arched entryways, tall slender windows and diminutive buttresses, it’s topped by a frame cupola.

   The courthouse has an entry in the middle of each side, but the primary entrance is on the north facade.

   The second floor courtroom is a large and lofty space, with exposed wooden trusses supporting the roof that more give the appearance of being inside a cathedral than a courthouse. The curved alcove behind the judge’s bench helped to amplify his voice in the days before sound systems were even a dream.

   The wooden jury chairs aren’t original, having been obtained from another historic Texas courthouse in Nacogdoches. But the benches used by visitors are not only original, they display a decidedly European detail for those who take the time to look closely: metalwork feet depicting dragons’ feet, wind in back of the benches into the beasts’ bodies, wings and ending in heads peering over the top where they are swallowing their own tails. Probably not something most of the local cowboys and farmers had seen before!

   Gibson took Texas’ extreme weather into consideration in his design, utilizing high-arched windows that would open allow breezes to circulate air beneath the vaulted ceiling. It provided some relief from the summer heat, but also caused a bit of a problem with birds flying indoors. One funny story tells of the time that an errant bird circling inside the courtroom was such a distraction that the judge asked if someone could do something about it. One loud, reverberating gunshot later the distraction was gone.

   Every good castle should have at least one secret passageway, and the Shelby County Courthouse is no exception. On the floor to the left of the judge’s chair is an escape hatch (yes, really). If the verdict handed down upset the crowd, the judge could open the hatch climb down the stairs and escape through a one-way door. His deputies were in charge of keeping an eye on the crowd until he mounted his horse and got away, before releasing them for the day.

   If that were scripted into a Western, it’d be downright comical.

   The boards in the center of the courthouse come together at a point said to be the center of the county. When the building was renovated, the local Daughters of the Republic of Texas purchased an 1885 silver dollar coin to have imbedded at that spot.

   An interesting side note: In 1948, a young Texas congressman began his successful U. S. Senate campaign in front of the Shelby County Courthouse.

   The courthouse, now listed on the National Historic Register, cost $26,000 to build, and over $1 million to renovate in the 1980s. But J.J.E. Gibson was never paid for his work. Whether that was an unfortunate oversight or the county just couldn’t afford it remains a bit of a mystery. The sister to the Shelby County Courthouse, it’s identical 1885 twin in Carthage, Panola County, was unfortunately torn down in 1957.

   It probably shouldn’t come as any surprise that Texas has more historic courthouses than any other state, but did you know that of the 254 counties in the state – 242 of these treasured pieces of architecture are still in active government use? They can be a terrific focus for making a road trip checklist – helping you choose large and small towns to visit. Do you have a favorite?

A Granbury Carol Experience


   When Brian Clowdus, the producer of the “Christmas Carol Experience” and other live “experience” performances, invited my family to attend, I quickly accepted. I had heard great things about his “Sleepy Hollow” production during October in the same town, so was anxious to see one of the shows for myself.

   Clowdus is known for his site-specific, immersive, environmental theatrical experiences throughout the country. It’s the furthest thing from “sitting back and watching the action” that you can imagine.

   The Christmas Carol Experience takes place in Granbury’s Dora Lee Langdon Mansion, which played a vital part adding to the authenticity of the scenes. Imagine wandering from room to room in a historic home and being enthralled with the conversations at Fezziwig’s Christmas party, in the home of Bob Cratchit, and even out to a courtyard which was transformed into an eerily lit cemetery for the funeral scene. The Victorian setting added to the feeling of stepping back in time and right into the Dickens classic.

   If you’re lucky enough to go, you won’t just be watching, however. Audiences are limited to 50 visitors for each performance so that the entire cast and audience fits comfortably in each space, interacting, laughing together and learning the meaning of a life well spent. The small group makes the experience seem more like an intimate evening with friends.

   Our group included mostly adults, but the ages ranged from about 8-80 and everyone seemed to find delight in the evening.

 

   One of the things that impressed me was that a mere cast of five actors and two techs miraculously brought this fully immersive experience to life. How do you have a Christmas Carol experience without even a Tiny Tim? Let me let you on a secret…you won’t even miss the little guy! My daughter, a thespian herself, was impressed with what a full performance it felt like with so few people involved. The talented actors transfixed us with their performances, and had us gladly answering questions and laughing at improvisational comments interjected into the performance. They deftly managed to engage everyone in the action without breaking character or distracting from the storyline. Special lighting, sound effects and music enhanced each scene.

   Our ticket included the VIP experience. Though I didn’t know exactly what to expect, it was enjoyable. Attendees with these tickets ordered free drinks (wine, cocoa and a special cocktail called the “Scrooge” (that will warm even the iciest heart) in a souvenir mug, and were ushered into the home a few minutes earlier than the rest of the audience to join members of the cast for cookies, games and singing Christmas carols. The cast members are so enjoyable and engaging, even the grumpiest of attendees found themselves joining in (even my husband…and that’s saying something!).

   The evening ended in a flurry of snow that was greeted with gasps from the delighted visitors.

   The month-long experience is quickly selling out due to its popularity and the limited audience size. If you miss out on this opportunity, I’ll see you at Clowdus’ next show – whatever it is!

VIP tickets $69, General admission $29-49

   Ample, free parking is available across the street at the visitor’s center, and just a block from the welcoming Granbury Town Square, where the restaurant options are numerous and tempting. There was another special event on the Square, “Living Christmas Cards, the same night as we attended. If you find yourself in a similar scheduling situation, it’s advisable to arrive early to find parking. It’s also wise to make dinner reservations an any of the restaurants on the square as the Christmas spirit has this small Texas town bustling with locals and tourists.






USS Texas – Change of Address

     It’s hard to believe that the USS Texas won’t be moored at the San Jacinto Battlegrounds across from the Monument any longer. I’ve been visiting this historic ship here since I was a kid. This is the last weekend that it will be here before heading to dry dock for some much-needed repairs. After that, she’ll go to her new home . . . which hasn’t quite been decided yet.

     Now this isn’t just any old ship. Commissioned in 1914 (yep, over 100 years ago),  she’s one of the few surviving Dreadnaughts and a veteran of two world wars. That makes the Texas one of the oldest surviving battleships in existence. If you’re at all interested in naval history, hers is worth reading about.

     Constructed of iron, wood and steel the years and elements have taken their toll and previous “bandaid” repairs aren’t going to help any more. So the state, who owns the ship, has dedicated $35 million to her refurbishment with the understanding that they will no longer pay for repairs. (Yikes!) That’s part of why the ship needs to relocate. It will take a lot more visitors to pay the bills from here on out.

     They have installed 750,000 gallons of expanded foam to reduce the water she’s taking on from over 2,000 gallons per minute to under 20 gallons per minute. That should make her stable enough to be towed to dry dock in Galveston for repairs.

     After she’s, well . . . ship shape again, she will either be berthed in Baytown, Beaumont or at the Sea Wold Park in Galveston alongside the Stewart and the Cavalla. (I have my fingers crossed for Galveston.)  

 

     When I found out that my husband (who grew up just about 12 miles away from the San Jacinto Monument Park) had never been aboard the Texas, I decided we needed to take advantage of this “last weekend” to walk her decks. Lots of other locals had the same idea.

     In addition to the fascinating things to see on the Texas, including peeks at rarely seen spaces like the officers’ wardroom, Santa was even there – and ya know I can’t resist the guy in red. I even spotted one of those rascally elves in the mess hall. See him hanging on the fridge?

     We came away with “Merry Christmas” Battleship Texas T-shirts – not something you see everyday.  

     Now we’re all going to need some patience to wait during repairs and the decision about her new home. But wherever that will be, I’ll be back aboard when I get the chance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Denton’s Ghostly Goatman Bridge


   What? You want another Texas ghost story to usher in Halloween? Well, who am I to say no to such a reasonable request . . .

   Hear the word “Denton,” and you might thing of University of North Texas or Texas Women’s University.

   But being the lover of ghostly tales that I am, my “to see” list recently included the Old Alton Bridge . . . known to locals and students as Goatman’s Bridge. According to legend if you go down to the bridge at night, turn off you headlights and honk twice – you’d see the glowing red eyes of the Goatman himself on the other side.

   Now let’s clear something up to start with you can’t actually drive across the bridge (any more). It has been blocked off as a pedestrians only bridge. There is even a wonderful art installation that lights the beams with multicolored lights at night. Fun to stop and see even if you aren’t looking for something otherworldly.


Back when the bridge was built in 1884 over Hickory Creek, it was a busy thoroughfare. Now it’s one of those beautiful relics with a web of cast iron arching over creaking wood plank decking. A spot that has become oh-so-popular with thrill seekers and ghost hunters.

   Since the 1930s several different versions of the Goatman tale have circulated among locals. After all, most local legends are passed down verbally and change just a bit with each telling.

   The most popular version of the story relates the tale of an African-American named Oscar Washburn and his family who kept a herd of goats near the bridge. They made a good living from the animals’ meat, milk, cheeses and hides. But when the man hung a sign on the bridge directing his customers with the words “This way to the Goatman,” the local Ku Klux Klansmen were offended by his pride.

   Late on a dark night in 1938, a lynch mob stormed the family’s shack and dragged the screaming Goatman to the bridge, where they put a noose around his neck and flung him over the side. And there’s a twist to the story: when the marauders went down the banks of the creek to admire their handywork…the noose was empty and Washburn was nowhere to be seen.

   Thinking he had escaped, they went back to the shack and set in on fire – with the unfortunate family inside – to lure Washburn out of the woods. But he was never seen again . . . at least in the flesh.

   Stories advise seekers of the vengeful spirit to knock three times on the bridge, or honk their car horn to summon the spirit. They even say that the Goatman will take his revenge on anyone who dares to summon him that is of the same bloodline as one of the murderers.  (So it might be wise to do a bit of genealogy before you go!)

   Goatman legends exist in several other towns in Texas and several other states, with slight variations. They probably serve more as a warning of morality than a reminder of an actual historical event. No African American named Oscar Washburn lived in the area at the time, and there were no reports of lynchings in 1938. But visitors persist in reporting strange smells and sights, being touched or grabbed and hearing snarling coming from the woods.

   If you want to stop at Denton’s Goatman Bridge and tempt fate for yourself . . . be my guest!

San Antonio’s Haunted Black Swan Inn

   Have you ever heard of San Antonio’s Black Swan Inn? Sounds elegant, doesn’t it? The 150-year-old Greek Revival named after Shakespeare’s favorite bar looks like an iconic Southern mansion. It’s now a popular venue for weddings, parties and even memorials but the dark past of the home and the land that it sits on has given it a reputation as one of the most haunted places in the state.

   You’ll probably need help from an app or map to find the home, which is situated along Salado Creek and nestled under a canopy of ancient trees.

   The bloody 1842 Battle of Salado occurred on the property between General Adrian Woll, Sam Houston and their troops and the less successful Mexican troops who were fighting for control of the area. A total of 60 men lost their lives on the hill, just 20 years before the mansion was built on the same soil.

   The current owner moved her family into the mansion in 1990 and operated her Victorian garment company from the extra space. Soon the family heard repeated door slammings, saw a “shadow man” who sometimes pinched the children hard enough to cause bruises and had to admit they weren’t the only “residents” at the Inn.

   Eight or more spirits are said to roam the house and land, including a Confederate soldier, former owners (one of whom hung himself . . . or was murdered, depending on who you ask), and a blonde-haired little girl.

   When I was invited to speak at a paranormal conference at the home a couple of years ago I enjoyed touring the interior, which is appropriately decorated and adorned with a heavy-hand. Victorian did love their “stylish clutter,” after all. The home needs quite a lot of work, but it’s easy to appreciate her beauty even through the chipping paint.

   One of the most popular spots inside the house for the local “ghost hunters” was a small closet off the main parlor. The interior was painted black and a chair and antique mirror were set inside. The locals told me that if you sit in the chair – in the dark – and stare into the mirror, the spirits can communicate directly with you.

   No, I didn’t “experience” anything while I was at the Black Swan, but perhaps I was just too distracted thinking about the talk I was about to give to the crowd.

   If you’d like to see if you can detect anything otherworldly for yourself, the Black Swan Inn regularly hosts the “Haunted Cocktail Hour” and other events that are open to the public.

   Are you brave enough to visit after dark?