May the 4th Be With You – Chewbacca’s Resting Place

   If you’re a Star Wars fan, you know that the actor who portrayed the popular character of Chewbacca in the films was Peter Mayhew. But did you know that he was a Texan?

   The seven-foot-three-inch tall actor was British by birth, but after he married his Texan wife he became a naturalized citizen of the United States in 2005. He took that oath in Arlington Texas.

Boyd, Texas

   The couple lived in the small town of Boyd, Texas.

   Unfortunately, Mayhew passed away shortly before his 75th birthday. He is buried in Azleland Memorial Park in Reno, Texas.

   Now there are actually two towns called Reno in the state, both one in Parker County and the other in Lamar County, and both are home to about 3,000 people. So there’s often some confusion between the two.

   Azleland Memorial Park is in Parker County.

   Mayhew’s beautiful granite marker pays tribute to the man who was often referred to as a “gentle giant,” portraying both his own portrait and that of the character he made famous.

   A variety of small Chewbacca figurines have lovingly been placed at his gravesite by visitors as a tribute to his film legacy.

Mementoes left by visitors.

   It’s an unexpected find for a small town, but one that has become a bucket list stop for his many fans.

   The marker also includes the Isaac Newton quote, “If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants.”

My visit with Mr. Mayhew.

  Happy “May the 4th Be With You” Day.



Terlingua Cemetery: Ghost Town Graveyard


Welcome to Terlingua Cemetery, in Terlingua Texas.

   To those who are more accustomed to manicured cemeteries with vast green lawns, this place appears to be abandoned, but Terlingua cemetery is still in use today.

   It’s one of the most photographed graveyards in the state of Texas, which should come as no surprise.

     I’ve wanted to visit this amazing burial ground since I was a child, so to have the opportunity to roam through it – left alone with my thoughts and wonder about those who rest here – was a true privilege. There are the well-known, the unknown and the surprise of finding the grave of someone I knew personally in college. It was an astounding experience.

   Terlingua was one of the most remote areas in North America at the time it was founded. It still remains set apart from more populated areas.

   The cemetery encompasses one acre in the Terlingua Ghost Town – which isn’t really a ghost town at all. True . . . the town used to be the site of a quicksilver mining camp and place where desert folk called home beginning in the 1880s, but it’s now more of an artist community and a low key tourist base for visiting Big Bend National Park.

    Marked graves date back to 1903, but burials began back when the dangerous process of mercury mining began here. Mine collapses, mercury poisoning and later influeza and tuberculosis epidemics populated the cemetery.

   Conservative estimates say that there are about 400 burials in the cemetery: Men, women, and children. Miners, goat herders, artists, housewives, ranch hands, cooks, bootleggers, day laborers, war veterans, clergy, even murder victims. About 90 percent of those who rest here are of Hispanic heritage.

   Those that were victims of mining accidents were sometimes laid to rest in coffins made by the companies they worked for.

   Many of the gravesites have lost their markers, or they have simply become illegible over time. Some have all but vanished due to relentless weather and relic hunters.

   Others reflect the character and sometimes humor of those who they remember. A Hobbit hole, a metal T-Rex, and epitaph of “Another good man done gone.” They all lure visitors into slowing down to take in the silent stories of the cemetery.

   The Mining town was abandoned in the 1940s. That’s when Terlingua became a true ghost town . . . years before it became home to artists and others who tired of life in overcrowded communities . . . and eventually the visits of countless curious tourists on their way to Big Bend.

   Visitors are fascinated by the variety of burial markers and folk art memorials, and of course – the stunning View of Chisos Mountains and Sierra del Carmens as a backdrop.

   Each year an elaborate celebration takes place here to mark Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, giving the living a chance to honor and remember the departed.

   Walking into Terlingua cemetery is like walking into a time warp. If a visit to this fascinating place doesn’t make a person stop and reflect . . . I’m not sure what would.

   Join me for a stroll through the grounds of this historic cemetery in my Youtube video of the cemetery HERE.

 

Irish Castle or Texas Courthouse? It’s Both!

   Ahhhh, romantic Irish castles. Something that makes this Irish lady’s heart swoon. But wait…this is no castle at all. It’s actually the Shelby County Courthouse in far east Texas!

   Architect John Joseph Emmett Gibson, a native of Ireland who was hired to design the building in Center Texas in 1883, wanted to give his masterpiece the appearance of the castles of his homeland complete with turrets, towers and even secret passageways.

   Gibson not only designed and oversaw the construction of the two-story Romanesque Revival courthouse, he had over two million bricks specially made for the project. The mortar was made from sand carried from forty miles away in Louisiana by oxcarts. The glass, vents, and diamond-shaped braces also made the journey from New Orleans and other Southern ports before being transported by oxen.

   It was a grand undertaking that took two years to complete, but has provided a jewel of a centerpiece to the town square for generations.

 

   A total of twelve fireplace chimneys surround the top of the beautiful structure like a crown. Accented with arched entryways, tall slender windows and diminutive buttresses, it’s topped by a frame cupola.

   The courthouse has an entry in the middle of each side, but the primary entrance is on the north facade.

   The second floor courtroom is a large and lofty space, with exposed wooden trusses supporting the roof that more give the appearance of being inside a cathedral than a courthouse. The curved alcove behind the judge’s bench helped to amplify his voice in the days before sound systems were even a dream.

   The wooden jury chairs aren’t original, having been obtained from another historic Texas courthouse in Nacogdoches. But the benches used by visitors are not only original, they display a decidedly European detail for those who take the time to look closely: metalwork feet depicting dragons’ feet, wind in back of the benches into the beasts’ bodies, wings and ending in heads peering over the top where they are swallowing their own tails. Probably not something most of the local cowboys and farmers had seen before!

   Gibson took Texas’ extreme weather into consideration in his design, utilizing high-arched windows that would open allow breezes to circulate air beneath the vaulted ceiling. It provided some relief from the summer heat, but also caused a bit of a problem with birds flying indoors. One funny story tells of the time that an errant bird circling inside the courtroom was such a distraction that the judge asked if someone could do something about it. One loud, reverberating gunshot later the distraction was gone.

   Every good castle should have at least one secret passageway, and the Shelby County Courthouse is no exception. On the floor to the left of the judge’s chair is an escape hatch (yes, really). If the verdict handed down upset the crowd, the judge could open the hatch climb down the stairs and escape through a one-way door. His deputies were in charge of keeping an eye on the crowd until he mounted his horse and got away, before releasing them for the day.

   If that were scripted into a Western, it’d be downright comical.

   The boards in the center of the courthouse come together at a point said to be the center of the county. When the building was renovated, the local Daughters of the Republic of Texas purchased an 1885 silver dollar coin to have imbedded at that spot.

   An interesting side note: In 1948, a young Texas congressman began his successful U. S. Senate campaign in front of the Shelby County Courthouse.

   The courthouse, now listed on the National Historic Register, cost $26,000 to build, and over $1 million to renovate in the 1980s. But J.J.E. Gibson was never paid for his work. Whether that was an unfortunate oversight or the county just couldn’t afford it remains a bit of a mystery. The sister to the Shelby County Courthouse, it’s identical 1885 twin in Carthage, Panola County, was unfortunately torn down in 1957.

   It probably shouldn’t come as any surprise that Texas has more historic courthouses than any other state, but did you know that of the 254 counties in the state – 242 of these treasured pieces of architecture are still in active government use? They can be a terrific focus for making a road trip checklist – helping you choose large and small towns to visit. Do you have a favorite?

Roadtripping

     Happy New Year! Heading into 2022 I’m looking forward to hitting the open road again.

     I’ve been having a great time working on travel itineraries for the next few months. Some fun adventures are in the works – near and far, new and repeat collaborations and a few openings for spontaneous trips as well.
What kind of trips are calling to you?

  •  week-long vacation

  • weekend getaway

  • mother/daughter trip

  • hometown tourist

  • second honeymoon

  • besties roadtrip

  • solo adventure

  • “me and my dog” trip

  • art lovers tour

  • culinary exploration

  • something else

     Share your travel wishlist for 2022 in the comments! I’d love to hear about it.

USS Texas – Change of Address

     It’s hard to believe that the USS Texas won’t be moored at the San Jacinto Battlegrounds across from the Monument any longer. I’ve been visiting this historic ship here since I was a kid. This is the last weekend that it will be here before heading to dry dock for some much-needed repairs. After that, she’ll go to her new home . . . which hasn’t quite been decided yet.

     Now this isn’t just any old ship. Commissioned in 1914 (yep, over 100 years ago),  she’s one of the few surviving Dreadnaughts and a veteran of two world wars. That makes the Texas one of the oldest surviving battleships in existence. If you’re at all interested in naval history, hers is worth reading about.

     Constructed of iron, wood and steel the years and elements have taken their toll and previous “bandaid” repairs aren’t going to help any more. So the state, who owns the ship, has dedicated $35 million to her refurbishment with the understanding that they will no longer pay for repairs. (Yikes!) That’s part of why the ship needs to relocate. It will take a lot more visitors to pay the bills from here on out.

     They have installed 750,000 gallons of expanded foam to reduce the water she’s taking on from over 2,000 gallons per minute to under 20 gallons per minute. That should make her stable enough to be towed to dry dock in Galveston for repairs.

     After she’s, well . . . ship shape again, she will either be berthed in Baytown, Beaumont or at the Sea Wold Park in Galveston alongside the Stewart and the Cavalla. (I have my fingers crossed for Galveston.)  

 

     When I found out that my husband (who grew up just about 12 miles away from the San Jacinto Monument Park) had never been aboard the Texas, I decided we needed to take advantage of this “last weekend” to walk her decks. Lots of other locals had the same idea.

     In addition to the fascinating things to see on the Texas, including peeks at rarely seen spaces like the officers’ wardroom, Santa was even there – and ya know I can’t resist the guy in red. I even spotted one of those rascally elves in the mess hall. See him hanging on the fridge?

     We came away with “Merry Christmas” Battleship Texas T-shirts – not something you see everyday.  

     Now we’re all going to need some patience to wait during repairs and the decision about her new home. But wherever that will be, I’ll be back aboard when I get the chance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Desert Air Motel : Shining Again in Sanderson

   I have to tell ya…I’ve been looking forward to staying at this renovated mid-century motel all through covid shutdown! If you watched my instagram live interviews/tours of hotel properties around the state during shutdown, you’ve already seen a sneak peak of this one.

   The sign alone would have convinced me, but the rooms, gathering spaces and friendly owners and operators make this a definite addition to a road trip list.

   The Desert Air isn’t one of the made-to-look-vintage places. It was actually built in 1960 by Ervin and Melburn Grisby, who operated it until 1971. Here’a a photo of Ervin and Melburn — can’t you just picture meeting them at the motel back in the day?

   Ervin worked at the Kerr Mercantile  for 35 before building the motel. He even met his wife at the store. So it’s especially appropriate that one of the store’s (it’s now known a Z-Bar Trading Company) dinosaurs has taken up residence at the motel. But more about that in a minute… 

    Besides bringing the entire motel back to life, the new owners have added a couple of their own signature touches to the place, including custom benches outside each room where you can sit back, enjoy the sunset and kick the dirt off your shoes.

   They also restored the iconic sign and lit it with an ingenious method that avoided costly neon. She’s a beauty!

   Each of the rooms has its own special charm and is decorated with photo artwork featuring the beauty of the area. We stayed in Room 117, the Ocotillo Suite, which is the only one that has a private courtyard with table and chairs, a “cowboy tub,” view of the mountains and a T-rex…. because… why not? It was a nice place to enjoy the mornings and evenings with a cold drink and catch up on a few emails.

 

 

 

 

 

   The rooms are just retro enough to be fun, but with all the amenities you’ll expect from a modern day motel including a small fridge and microwave. And that bed felt s-o-o good after a long drive, let me tell ya!

 

   Even if you’re lucky enough to have the room with a private courtyard you won’t want to “keep to yourself” for very long, with tempting gathering areas calling your name. The center court space made it easy to socialize with the other guests, and turned into a bit of a party when everyone offered to bring items from their travel coolers to share.


   That nice shady oak tree and large rock (it’s called the “Hoot Owl Rock) in the courtyard hail back to another set of owners, Charles and Mary Beth Stavely – the second owners.

   Walk through the passage by the office to the side yard, and you’ll make the unexpected find of a school bus. The current owners have re-floored the interior of the bus and created a shaded area outside to provide other secluded spots for the guests to enjoy the outdoors.

   Why a bus? It’s a reasonable question, and the answer ties back to the third owners Merv and Gerri Degraff who left the motel to their son Scott. A musician and motorcycle enthusiast, Scott drove the bus (loaded with his gear) from Florida to the motel, parked it out back, and there it stayed. Luckily the new owners Nick, Sara and Joe took pity on the bus and fixed it up to serve a purpose for their new venture. Pretty cute, huh?

   I promised you a bit more info about the Kerr Brothers Store. Technically a hardware store, it isn’t usually something that I would add to my itinerary, but this one is definitely unique. Yes, it’s probably the BIGGEST hardware store you’ll sever see, but it also has, well . . .

   Yup! Dinosaurs. And every type of metal “yard art” that you can think of and a LOT that you can’t! One step inside the door will make you stop in your tracks to try to take it in, but just take your time and wander. You’ll find things that make you laugh, things you might actually consider taking home, and things that will have you gaping in confusion. Even if you’re only driving through Sanderson and not staying, this is well worth the stop.

   It was eventually time to check out of the Desert Air and get back on the road, but we’ll definitely be back.

   There was one more touch that I appreciated while getting ready to leave. Each room is provided with an envelope with the name of the member of the housekeeping staff, in case the guest would like to leave them a gratuity. To me it shows how much the owners appreciate their staff, and let’s be honest…it’s so easy in the rush of packing to forget this gesture. The envelope was a nice reminder and made it convenient as well.

   Next stop: Alpine and a couple of surrounding towns. You won’t want to miss riding along to see what we found!

 

Ewe’ve Got to See This: Painted Sheep of San Angelo

     Ewe better believe there’s something, well…sheepish about San Angelo.

     No matter where you look, there they are: fiberglass sheep sculptures in every color and design imaginable.

     Some cities have cows, horses or pelicans. Here sheep started grazing around town in 2007 as a nod to the town’s past, when it was known as the Wool Capital of the World.

     Each is sponsored (usually by the location where they’re making an appearance) and given a punny name: Happy Trails to EWE, Lambscapes, Don’t EWE Mess with Texas, Lucky EWE, Lamb of God, and more. MANY more.

     With over 100 sheep in this colorful flock they can keep visitors happily hunting for days.

     If you’re ready to start off on a sheep-tacular scavenger hunt of your own, this list is a great place to start.

Water Lilies of San Angelo

     Bet you didn’t know that Texas has an official state water lily…

     I mean, c’mon. There’s pretty much a state EVERYTHING of Texas, so why not this?

     And I’ve discovered the ideal place to see it in person: The International Waterlily Collection Garden in San Angelo.

     For over thirty years, visitors to this unique outdoor space have been stopping to admire the fascinated flowers and lily pads. Ho hum, you say? What if I told you that some of the pads are eight feet in diameter!

 

     A rainbow of blooms of up to 150 species  inhabit six pools. What’s even more amazing is that the varieties on view are only about 1% of owner Ken Landon’s collection, which encompasses close to 90% of all water lilies, including some that have become extinct in their native lands. The types in the pools are changed annually, and signs identify many of the species.

 

     My husband and I had so many thing on our “to see” list while we were in San Angelo, that I admit this park fell into the “if we have time” category. Thank heaven we did! The descriptions of it that I hadn’t done it justice.

 

     Dozens of dragonflies and birds flitted around the pools and flowers, which made it even more enchanting.

     The long flowering season of the waterlilies (from April to October) provides ample opportunity to see them but the height is September, which is when San Angelo’s Lily Fest is! Click this link for updates about the festival.

     The best time to see the flowers is in the morning, but some of the blooms only occur in the evening.

     But what about the Texas State Water Lily? I’m glad you asked! On April 26, 2011, the 82nd Legislature of the State of Texas formally designated Nymphaea, “Texas Dawn” as the Official Waterlily of the State of Texas. San Angelo is home to the “Texas Dawn,” which was created by Landon.

     The International Waterlily Collection has been designated by the International Waterlily & Water Gardening Society as a premiere collection of lilies in existence. Pretty impressive, huh?

   The display is near the corner of West Beaure­gard Avenue and North Park Street west of downtown San Angelo and the Concho River. The park is free to the public and open 24 hours.

     So put the ‘petal to the metal’ (sorry!) and be sure to add this colorful, unique stop to your next visit to or through San Angelo.

 




Ponder-ing Bonnie & Clyde in Texas

     Since Bonnie Elizabeth Parker and Clyde Chestnut Barrow were both born in Texas, it should come as no surprise that there is no shortage of places in the state with some sort of link to the notorious outlaws. 

     When Bonnie,  Clyde and the Barrow Gang drove up to the Ponder State Bank in Ponder, Texas and attempted to rob it, they were disappointed to find out it had gone bankrupt the week before. Legend has it that Clyde was so disgusted with the news that he marched the teller out to the getaway car at gunpoint, and ordered him to repeat what he had just said to Bonnie…who laughed hysterically. Clyde then shot out the windows of the bank in frustration.

     Years later in 1967 Warren Beatty and Faye Dunaway would film a reenactment of the event at the same bank while portraying the young outlaws. The film, which told a version of their story that is far from the truth,  glorified the couple as being glamorous outlaws. In reality they murdered at least thirteen people.

     This popular movie is actually why most people refer to them as “Bonnie and Clyde.” In their day they were more commonly referred to as the Barrow Gang or Clyde Barrow and “that Parker woman.”

     The Ponder bank is empty now, but still has much of it’s original charm including the original teller cage and bank safe.

     I love when movies about historical characters are able to use actual locations from their (sometimes fictionalized) lives, don’t you?

 

   If you stood on these steps would you be more impressed that you were standing where Bonnie & Clyde did, or Warren and Faye?




Texas’ First White House: The Ross Sterling Mansion

     This morning I posted a photo and bit of information about the Ross Sterling Mansion, which is known locally as the First Texas White House. After receiving several messages asking for a bit more information, I’m sharing it here.

     This beauty is right down the road from my own home…which is decidedly smaller!

     Architect Alfred C. Finn designed the scaled down replica of the American White House for Humble Oil founder and future Texas governor Ross Sterling. It’s a Texas State Historical Landmark as well as being listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Governor Ross Sterling

     Finn, by the way, also designed Houston’s Jefferson Davis Hospital, Sam Houston Coliseum, and the San Jacinto Monument in addition to numerous other federal and private projects.

Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.

      Construction on the grand residence began in 1924 and was completed in 1927. First named “Miramar” – meaning “sea view” – the 21,000 square foot mansion sits on six about six and a half acres of residential coastline between La Porte and Morgans Point.

Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.

     Its 34 rooms include nine bedrooms, 15 baths, a dining room that seated 300 guests, a ballroom with pressed tin ceiling and marble fireplace, a gentleman’s lounge with carved wood fireplace and built-in leaded glass-front bookcases, a mahogany-paneled library, a ladies’ parlor, and a kitchen with butler’s pantry. Seven fireplaces warmed the waterfront home on chilly winter evenings, and the rooftop terrace still offers stunning 360-degree waterfront views.

Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.

     This pair of serpentine reversed staircases in the foyer would put the most stunning movie set to shame.

Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.

     The waterfront side of the home features a 28-foot columned rotunda portico that most people immediately recognize as being based on the White House.

Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.
Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.

     The staircases and lowest level are made of granite blocks, and the walls of the upper stories are made of foot-thick limestone. The foundation is reportedly strong enough to support a ten-story building. The stalwart structure has withstood countless storms including Carla, Alicia, and Ike. I would certainly feel safe within its walls!

Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.

     Ross Sterling was the 31st governor of Texas, serving from 1931-1933. Countless dignitaries and celebrities have been hosted in the home over the years.

Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.

     Sterling and his wife Maude Abbie Gage had several children, and they along with a generation of grandchildren enjoyed the home for two decades.

Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.

     In 1946 he donated his mansion to a civic club and it was used as a juvenile home until 1961. During those years the home suffered heavy damage.

Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.

     Thankfully a handful of owners in the interim years have restored it to its former glory. It still retains many of the original features including intricately carved and gilded moldings, silver and gold light sconces, Tiffany chandeliers, antique stone fireplaces, pressed-tin ceilings and marble and oak flooring.

Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.

     It is now once again a private residence, having sold at auction in 2016 for $2.8 million (though initial estimates were for $4 million).

     If the current owners insisted on having me over for tea, I must admit I wouldn’t mind!

     If you’d like to cruise by on a Sunday drive, the historic home is located at 515 Bayridge Road in LaPorte.

Photo courtesy of John Daugherty Realtors.

     Click the links below to watch some entertaining home movies shot at the mansion back in it’s Fitzgerald-era heyday!

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Ross Sterling historical video
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