There’s a tiny town in far west Texas that really gets to the heart of things…and its name says it all: Valentine. The city limits sign lists its population as 217, but anyone who lives there will tell you that’s an exaggeration.
This time of year Valentine’s small post office is bustling, processing thousands of pieces of mail from all over the world – including 30 foreign countries. Surprised? You see, it’s become a tradition to send Valentines through the town’s post office so they receive special, customized romantic post marks that change every year. You can find all the details about that in one of my earlier blog posts, HERE.
Valentine, Texas Post Office
Last year I sent my own round of Valentines through the post office, and this year I was happy to finally get to see the post office halfway between Marfa and Van Horn in person.
There are two versions of the story about how Valentine got its name, and locals happily embrace both. When a Southern Pacific Railroad crew finished laying tracks in 1882, they needed to establish a stopping point for fuel. Since it was Valentine’s Day, they named the station Valentine. Of course, it didn’t hurt that the president of Wells Fargo and a significant stock holder in the railroad was named John Valentine – so they could easily say it was in his honor as well.
Trains began running through the town in 1883, and in 1886 its now infamous post office was established.
By 1890, Valentine boasted about 100 citizens, two saloons, a general store, a hotel and a meat market. Ranchers in the area took advantage of the railroad to ship cattle out of town to markets.
The settlement has the unusual distinction of being the site of the largest earthquake known to have occurred in Texas. At 5:40 a.m. on August 16, 1931 a 6.5 magnitude quake really shook things up, damaging every building and even rotating gravestones in the local cemetery.
By the 1950s though, roadways and trucking were becoming more established and led to the demise of Valentine’s rail depot…and eventually local businesses. One that managed to stay open for years was a small café, where James Dean frequently ate while filming the 1956 movie “Giant” with Elizabeth Taylor and Rock Hudson nearby. Pretty big excitement for a small, dusty town.
James Dean at the Cafe
Today Valentine looks a lot more like a classic ghost town, although it does still have living residents and even its own school. To find the post office you’ll need to drive west all the way (and yes, it only takes a minute) through Valentine past abandoned buildings, and the post office is on your right just at the edge of town.
If you can’t visit Valentine for yourself, mark your calendar to send your mail their way several weeks before their namesake holiday next year. It’s a sweetly unique Texas tradition.
It was a brisk morning on Saturday, but luckily the sun was shining for the annual commemoration ceremony at Galveston’s Trinity Episcopal Cemtery for those lost in the Battle of Galveston. The event was hosted by the Edward Lea Camp of the Sons of Union Veterans of the Civil War. Thank you to everyone who came from near and far to attend.
The ceremony takes place each January and is free for the public to attend. You can find out more about Edward Lea, the naval officer whose marker the event centers around HERE.
The following are some photos from yesterday’s ceremony.
Ahhhh, romantic Irish castles. Something that makes this Irish lady’s heart swoon. But wait…this is no castle at all. It’s actually the Shelby County Courthouse in far east Texas!
Architect John Joseph Emmett Gibson, a native of Ireland who was hired to design the building in Center Texas in 1883, wanted to give his masterpiece the appearance of the castles of his homeland complete with turrets, towers and even secret passageways.
Gibson not only designed and oversaw the construction of the two-story Romanesque Revival courthouse, he had over two million bricks specially made for the project. The mortar was made from sand carried from forty miles away in Louisiana by oxcarts. The glass, vents, and diamond-shaped braces also made the journey from New Orleans and other Southern ports before being transported by oxen.
It was a grand undertaking that took two years to complete, but has provided a jewel of a centerpiece to the town square for generations.
A total of twelve fireplace chimneys surround the top of the beautiful structure like a crown. Accented with arched entryways, tall slender windows and diminutive buttresses, it’s topped by a frame cupola.
The courthouse has an entry in the middle of each side, but the primary entrance is on the north facade.
The second floor courtroom is a large and lofty space, with exposed wooden trusses supporting the roof that more give the appearance of being inside a cathedral than a courthouse. The curved alcove behind the judge’s bench helped to amplify his voice in the days before sound systems were even a dream.
The wooden jury chairs aren’t original, having been obtained from another historic Texas courthouse in Nacogdoches. But the benches used by visitors are not only original, they display a decidedly European detail for those who take the time to look closely: metalwork feet depicting dragons’ feet, wind in back of the benches into the beasts’ bodies, wings and ending in heads peering over the top where they are swallowing their own tails. Probably not something most of the local cowboys and farmers had seen before!
Gibson took Texas’ extreme weather into consideration in his design, utilizing high-arched windows that would open allow breezes to circulate air beneath the vaulted ceiling. It provided some relief from the summer heat, but also caused a bit of a problem with birds flying indoors. One funny story tells of the time that an errant bird circling inside the courtroom was such a distraction that the judge asked if someone could do something about it. One loud, reverberating gunshot later the distraction was gone.
Every good castle should have at least one secret passageway, and the Shelby County Courthouse is no exception. On the floor to the left of the judge’s chair is an escape hatch (yes, really). If the verdict handed down upset the crowd, the judge could open the hatch climb down the stairs and escape through a one-way door. His deputies were in charge of keeping an eye on the crowd until he mounted his horse and got away, before releasing them for the day.
If that were scripted into a Western, it’d be downright comical.
The boards in the center of the courthouse come together at a point said to be the center of the county. When the building was renovated, the local Daughters of the Republic of Texas purchased an 1885 silver dollar coin to have imbedded at that spot.
An interesting side note: In 1948, a young Texas congressman began his successful U. S. Senate campaign in front of the Shelby County Courthouse.
The courthouse, now listed on the National Historic Register, cost $26,000 to build, and over $1 million to renovate in the 1980s. But J.J.E. Gibson was never paid for his work. Whether that was an unfortunate oversight or the county just couldn’t afford it remains a bit of a mystery. The sister to the Shelby County Courthouse, it’s identical 1885 twin in Carthage, Panola County, was unfortunately torn down in 1957.
It probably shouldn’t come as any surprise that Texas has more historic courthouses than any other state, but did you know that of the 254 counties in the state – 242 of these treasured pieces of architecture are still in active government use? They can be a terrific focus for making a road trip checklist – helping you choose large and small towns to visit. Do you have a favorite?
Happy New Year! Heading into 2022 I’m looking forward to hitting the open road again.
I’ve been having a great time working on travel itineraries for the next few months. Some fun adventures are in the works – near and far, new and repeat collaborations and a few openings for spontaneous trips as well.
What kind of trips are calling to you?
week-long vacation
weekend getaway
mother/daughter trip
hometown tourist
second honeymoon
besties roadtrip
solo adventure
“me and my dog” trip
art lovers tour
culinary exploration
something else
Share your travel wishlist for 2022 in the comments! I’d love to hear about it.
The motto of Junction, Texas is “Land of Living Waters” for a very good reason. About 300 miles of running rivers, natural springs and flowing streams surround the small town.
But one of the features most photographed by passing tourists has nothing at all to do with water. It’s a Christmas tree (that stays up year-round) constructed entirely of antlers of white tail deer.
Sitting on Main Street right in the middle of town the tree has likely made drivers of countless cars traveling through the town hit the brakes in a “What was that!” reflex.
The unusual roadside attraction was created in 1968 by the Kimble (County) Business and Professional Women’s Club of Junction to celebrate the hunting heritage and history of the area.
It required hundreds of the antlers to reach its height of 12 feet.
Is it worth driving hundreds of miles to see? Well, um…no. But the nearby scenic overlook and park situated by the river are definitely worth a stop, so why not include the tree while you’re there? And anyone who knows me knows what a kick I get out of quirky roadside attractions.
When Brian Clowdus, the producer of the “Christmas Carol Experience” and other live “experience” performances, invited my family to attend, I quickly accepted. I had heard great things about his “Sleepy Hollow” production during October in the same town, so was anxious to see one of the shows for myself.
Clowdus is known for his site-specific, immersive, environmental theatrical experiences throughout the country. It’s the furthest thing from “sitting back and watching the action” that you can imagine.
The Christmas Carol Experience takes place in Granbury’s Dora Lee Langdon Mansion, which played a vital part adding to the authenticity of the scenes. Imagine wandering from room to room in a historic home and being enthralled with the conversations at Fezziwig’s Christmas party, in the home of Bob Cratchit, and even out to a courtyard which was transformed into an eerily lit cemetery for the funeral scene. The Victorian setting added to the feeling of stepping back in time and right into the Dickens classic.
If you’re lucky enough to go, you won’t just be watching, however. Audiences are limited to 50 visitors for each performance so that the entire cast and audience fits comfortably in each space, interacting, laughing together and learning the meaning of a life well spent. The small group makes the experience seem more like an intimate evening with friends.
Our group included mostly adults, but the ages ranged from about 8-80 and everyone seemed to find delight in the evening.
One of the things that impressed me was that a mere cast of five actors and two techs miraculously brought this fully immersive experience to life. How do you have a Christmas Carol experience without even a Tiny Tim? Let me let you on a secret…you won’t even miss the little guy! My daughter, a thespian herself, was impressed with what a full performance it felt like with so few people involved. The talented actors transfixed us with their performances, and had us gladly answering questions and laughing at improvisational comments interjected into the performance. They deftly managed to engage everyone in the action without breaking character or distracting from the storyline. Special lighting, sound effects and music enhanced each scene.
Our ticket included the VIP experience. Though I didn’t know exactly what to expect, it was enjoyable. Attendees with these tickets ordered free drinks (wine, cocoa and a special cocktail called the “Scrooge” (that will warm even the iciest heart) in a souvenir mug, and were ushered into the home a few minutes earlier than the rest of the audience to join members of the cast for cookies, games and singing Christmas carols. The cast members are so enjoyable and engaging, even the grumpiest of attendees found themselves joining in (even my husband…and that’s saying something!).
The evening ended in a flurry of snow that was greeted with gasps from the delighted visitors.
The month-long experience is quickly selling out due to its popularity and the limited audience size. If you miss out on this opportunity, I’ll see you at Clowdus’ next show – whatever it is!
VIP tickets $69, General admission $29-49
Ample, free parking is available across the street at the visitor’s center, and just a block from the welcoming Granbury Town Square, where the restaurant options are numerous and tempting. There was another special event on the Square, “Living Christmas Cards, the same night as we attended. If you find yourself in a similar scheduling situation, it’s advisable to arrive early to find parking. It’s also wise to make dinner reservations an any of the restaurants on the square as the Christmas spirit has this small Texas town bustling with locals and tourists.
Last night I attended a client preview event for the newest music venue in Houston, 713 Music Hall. And now my husband and I can’t wait to go back to attend concerts there!
When I worked in Downtown Houston, I saw the big Barbara Jordan Post Office location there every day. “Big” is an understatement – it was massive! When the post office closed, the question about what to do with the building was just as large as its footprint. Enter some design geniuses who are turning it into a multi-purpose space with its own food court, farmer’s market on weekends, rooftop green space and future retail space. And part of it has been developed into the 713 Music Hall . . . just look at this prime location.
We had a great time wandering all three levels of 713. The venue has eclectic lobbies, seating areas and multiple bars with colored lighting effects on each level make exploring the venue half the fun. With 90,000 square feet of space, there was plenty to discover.
And even though the space is, well . . . BIG . . . it still succeeds in feeling intimate with clear views of the stage throughout the levels and pitch-perfect audio. When the band Danny Ray and the Acoustic Production performed, we took the opportunity to scope out each level to choose our “target seats” for future concerts there, and made a pleasant discovery: there’s not a bad seat in the house!
In addition to fun performances by Acoustic Production and spectacular DJ, dancers in lighted costumes that would make any disco fan proud kept attendees entertained throughout the night.
While we watched and listened to the entertainers, we had the chance to sample tempting foods from local caterers. We had eaten Churrasco’s before, so weren’t surprised their offerings were tasty. But happy to discover LaRue Catering (some of the best macarons I’ve tasted), The Hometown Chef (who served mac’n’cheese in martini glasses and had a toppings bar including friend jalapeños, friend onions, bacon and more – what a great idea), and Cafe Natalie (where we loved everything they offered, including fresh spring rolls).
If you’re going to eat, you’re going to need some liquid refreshment to wash it down, and there were ample bars available.
Have you ever seen such a cute “wandering photo booth?” No need to build a booth in your event space, or try to “coax” your friends to go across the room to wait in line. And the pics are texted directly to your cell phone. The guests were loving this.
Eye see you! while we were exploring the space, of course we checked out the VIP Lounge on the third floor.
With it’s own bar and conversation “caves” big enough to accommodate you and your friends, it is a fun and funky spot to get away from the main action and visit with your posse.
What? You want another Texas ghost story to usher in Halloween? Well, who am I to say no to such a reasonable request . . .
Hear the word “Denton,” and you might thing of University of North Texas or Texas Women’s University.
But being the lover of ghostly tales that I am, my “to see” list recently included the Old Alton Bridge . . . known to locals and students as Goatman’s Bridge. According to legend if you go down to the bridge at night, turn off you headlights and honk twice – you’d see the glowing red eyes of the Goatman himself on the other side.
Now let’s clear something up to start with you can’t actually drive across the bridge (any more). It has been blocked off as a pedestrians only bridge. There is even a wonderful art installation that lights the beams with multicolored lights at night. Fun to stop and see even if you aren’t looking for something otherworldly.
Back when the bridge was built in 1884 over Hickory Creek, it was a busy thoroughfare. Now it’s one of those beautiful relics with a web of cast iron arching over creaking wood plank decking. A spot that has become oh-so-popular with thrill seekers and ghost hunters.
Since the 1930s several different versions of the Goatman tale have circulated among locals. After all, most local legends are passed down verbally and change just a bit with each telling.
The most popular version of the story relates the tale of an African-American named Oscar Washburn and his family who kept a herd of goats near the bridge. They made a good living from the animals’ meat, milk, cheeses and hides. But when the man hung a sign on the bridge directing his customers with the words “This way to the Goatman,” the local Ku Klux Klansmen were offended by his pride.
Late on a dark night in 1938, a lynch mob stormed the family’s shack and dragged the screaming Goatman to the bridge, where they put a noose around his neck and flung him over the side. And there’s a twist to the story: when the marauders went down the banks of the creek to admire their handywork…the noose was empty and Washburn was nowhere to be seen.
Thinking he had escaped, they went back to the shack and set in on fire – with the unfortunate family inside – to lure Washburn out of the woods. But he was never seen again . . . at least in the flesh.
Stories advise seekers of the vengeful spirit to knock three times on the bridge, or honk their car horn to summon the spirit. They even say that the Goatman will take his revenge on anyone who dares to summon him that is of the same bloodline as one of the murderers. (So it might be wise to do a bit of genealogy before you go!)
Goatman legends exist in several other towns in Texas and several other states, with slight variations. They probably serve more as a warning of morality than a reminder of an actual historical event. No African American named Oscar Washburn lived in the area at the time, and there were no reports of lynchings in 1938. But visitors persist in reporting strange smells and sights, being touched or grabbed and hearing snarling coming from the woods.
If you want to stop at Denton’s Goatman Bridge and tempt fate for yourself . . . be my guest!
Have you ever heard of San Antonio’s Black Swan Inn? Sounds elegant, doesn’t it? The 150-year-old Greek Revival named after Shakespeare’s favorite bar looks like an iconic Southern mansion. It’s now a popular venue for weddings, parties and even memorials but the dark past of the home and the land that it sits on has given it a reputation as one of the most haunted places in the state.
You’ll probably need help from an app or map to find the home, which is situated along Salado Creek and nestled under a canopy of ancient trees.
The bloody 1842 Battle of Salado occurred on the property between General Adrian Woll, Sam Houston and their troops and the less successful Mexican troops who were fighting for control of the area. A total of 60 men lost their lives on the hill, just 20 years before the mansion was built on the same soil.
The current owner moved her family into the mansion in 1990 and operated her Victorian garment company from the extra space. Soon the family heard repeated door slammings, saw a “shadow man” who sometimes pinched the children hard enough to cause bruises and had to admit they weren’t the only “residents” at the Inn.
Eight or more spirits are said to roam the house and land, including a Confederate soldier, former owners (one of whom hung himself . . . or was murdered, depending on who you ask), and a blonde-haired little girl.
When I was invited to speak at a paranormal conference at the home a couple of years ago I enjoyed touring the interior, which is appropriately decorated and adorned with a heavy-hand. Victorian did love their “stylish clutter,” after all. The home needs quite a lot of work, but it’s easy to appreciate her beauty even through the chipping paint.
One of the most popular spots inside the house for the local “ghost hunters” was a small closet off the main parlor. The interior was painted black and a chair and antique mirror were set inside. The locals told me that if you sit in the chair – in the dark – and stare into the mirror, the spirits can communicate directly with you.
No, I didn’t “experience” anything while I was at the Black Swan, but perhaps I was just too distracted thinking about the talk I was about to give to the crowd.
If you’d like to see if you can detect anything otherworldly for yourself, the Black Swan Inn regularly hosts the “Haunted Cocktail Hour” and other events that are open to the public.
It’s getting to be that fabulously spooky time of year! Halloween is just one month away, so I want to share one of my favorite ghostly activities for families, friends, or – if you dare – all by yourself.
I’m often asked by the people who take my ghost tours in Galveston if I take the same type of tours when I travel. You bet! These type of tours are a fun way to explore the local communities and their folklore…whether or not you’re a “believer.” There are a lot of ghost tours in the Lone Star State but hands-down my favorite tour to TAKE is the Historic Jefferson Ghostwalk.
The small east Texas town of Jefferson is known as one of the most haunted towns in the state, and has no shortage of stories.
As darkness falls, tour-goers gather at the corner of the Kahn Hotel to meet tour guide and resident ghost story expert Jodi Breckenridge. No one knows the stories about this town as well as she does. Jodi gives the tours every Friday and Saturday night year-round…so, truth be known, you don’t have to wait for the Halloween season to enjoy one.
Every time I’ve been on her tour (yes, I’ve taken it more than once) there have been several others who are repeat customers. That may sound unusual, but each tour is a bit different depending on what does or doesn’t happen, and access to haunted locations. Those locations make this one of the best and most unique opportunities, because the tour goers will actually get to go inside a few! For each place Jodi shares a little bit of history and a few ghost stories.
Take the word “walk” in the tour name seriously because you’ll be walking all around this charming town learning about the spirited residents of haunted hotels, houses, mansions, and bed and breakfasts, and businesses. You’ll even get to venture into the “Old Mill,” a darked antique market where attendees are encouraged to wander the aisles with the lights out. It always amazed me that I’ve never seen anyone knock anything over!
Jodi encourages her customers to take photos along the way to see if they can “capture” something otherworldly, and shows a few spooky photos on her iPad from past tours.
Now I’m going to let you in on how to make the most of this experience…
Twice a year, Jody hosts a “History, Haunts & Legends Paranormal Conference.” I usually go once a year, and am one of the guest speakers. It happens once in the fall and once in the spring. The ticket price includes your chance to meet and shop from authors of books of ghost stories, people who sell ghost hunting equipment, craftspeople who selling hauntingly unusual goods and more, in addition to hearing a day full of spooky-topic talks. I suggest buying a “VIP” ticket, so that you can also participate in a multi-location ghost hunt on the Saturday night of the conference. Private homes open up, each with a real ghost hunting team stationed with equipment, and you can go from location to location to participate. You’re sure to come away with fun stories to tell your family and friends.
Want to stay somewhere haunted while you’re there?
Kahn Hotel (where I usually stay) is nice pretty low key, with a small coffee shop on the first floor. They openly admit they’re haunted, so they won’t think anything about it if you wander the halls with your “ghost meters.
The elegant old Excelsior Hotel – notoriously haunted, but whatever you do don’t mention that to the staff – who don’t like that reputation. Even Director Steven Spielberg has had experiences here!
Jefferson Hotel – purchased a couple of years ago, the new owners have turned it from a creaky old hotel with a haunted history into almost an amusement park for ghost and horror enthusiasts. Each room has a theme – some of them over the top.
Jefferson also has a variety of bed and breakfasts to enjoy, and many of them have paranormal stories of their own.
Now . . . are you ready to brave the ghosts of historic Jefferson?
