Category: Texas Travel
Terlingua Cemetery: Ghost Town Graveyard
Welcome to Terlingua Cemetery, in Terlingua Texas.
To those who are more accustomed to manicured cemeteries with vast green lawns, this place appears to be abandoned, but Terlingua cemetery is still in use today.
It’s one of the most photographed graveyards in the state of Texas, which should come as no surprise.
I’ve wanted to visit this amazing burial ground since I was a child, so to have the opportunity to roam through it – left alone with my thoughts and wonder about those who rest here – was a true privilege. There are the well-known, the unknown and the surprise of finding the grave of someone I knew personally in college. It was an astounding experience.
Terlingua was one of the most remote areas in North America at the time it was founded. It still remains set apart from more populated areas.
The cemetery encompasses one acre in the Terlingua Ghost Town – which isn’t really a ghost town at all. True . . . the town used to be the site of a quicksilver mining camp and place where desert folk called home beginning in the 1880s, but it’s now more of an artist community and a low key tourist base for visiting Big Bend National Park.
Marked graves date back to 1903, but burials began back when the dangerous process of mercury mining began here. Mine collapses, mercury poisoning and later influeza and tuberculosis epidemics populated the cemetery.
Conservative estimates say that there are about 400 burials in the cemetery: Men, women, and children. Miners, goat herders, artists, housewives, ranch hands, cooks, bootleggers, day laborers, war veterans, clergy, even murder victims. About 90 percent of those who rest here are of Hispanic heritage.
Those that were victims of mining accidents were sometimes laid to rest in coffins made by the companies they worked for.
Many of the gravesites have lost their markers, or they have simply become illegible over time. Some have all but vanished due to relentless weather and relic hunters.
Others reflect the character and sometimes humor of those who they remember. A Hobbit hole, a metal T-Rex, and epitaph of “Another good man done gone.” They all lure visitors into slowing down to take in the silent stories of the cemetery.
The Mining town was abandoned in the 1940s. That’s when Terlingua became a true ghost town . . . years before it became home to artists and others who tired of life in overcrowded communities . . . and eventually the visits of countless curious tourists on their way to Big Bend.
Visitors are fascinated by the variety of burial markers and folk art memorials, and of course – the stunning View of Chisos Mountains and Sierra del Carmens as a backdrop.
Each year an elaborate celebration takes place here to mark Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, giving the living a chance to honor and remember the departed.
Walking into Terlingua cemetery is like walking into a time warp. If a visit to this fascinating place doesn’t make a person stop and reflect . . . I’m not sure what would.
Join me for a stroll through the grounds of this historic cemetery in my Youtube video of the cemetery HERE.
Mustangs Stampede through Texas History
Galloping across an urban plaza in Las Colinas, these larger-than-life bronze mustangs represent a unique piece of Texas history . . . and look gorgeous at the same time. The scale alone is awe-inspiring.
Of course people think of horses when they think of the Lone Star State, but these beauties are wild mustangs – descendants of the Spanish Andalusians that were used in the area by Spanish explorers in the 1500s. The word “Mustang” derives from the Spanish words mesteno, which means “wild” or “stray.”
They enabled the conquistadors to move faster across the land and carry more equipment.
Over half of the human on the expedition had died before they came down the Trinity River, and the horses were set free before they left to return to their home country. The resulting herds were used by the Caddo tribe in East Texas in the 1600s. Two hundred years later, large herds of mustangs ran freely over the Texas plains. They were the favored horses used by the Pony Express and to drive Longhorns to market.
An estimated 1 million wild horses used to roam Texas!
Created by wildlife artist Robert Glen, who lives in South Africa, the statue was dedicated in 1984. The statues took eight and a half years to create, which includes one year just for the installation process! Stampeding down a 400-foot river setting in a large pink granite plaza, it’s one of the largest equestrian sculptures in the world. Composed of a pair of stallions, five mares and two colts, the details are so exquisite you can almost hear them whinny as they toss their heads. Small fountains at the base of their hoofs create the illusion of splashing as they run.
Visit the Las Colinas Mustangs and their free museum at 801 W. Irving Blvd in Irving, Texas.
BBQ Texas Style at the Chainsaw Massacre Gas Station
I love a scary movie. Not a gory movie or one of the blood-guts-n-gore type. Just scary. Like ‘The Others,’ “Sixth Sense,” or the version of “The Changeling” with George C. Scott. Scare me with a suspenseful story, not with a splatter of blood.
But even I admit what a cult horror classic the 1974 version of “The Texas Chainsaw Massacre” has become. And what could be more fun than visiting a film location of a famous scary movie in time for Halloween? This one happens to be on a backroad in Texas.
If you’re familiar with the movie, then the Last Chance Gas Station, also known as Bilbo’s Texas Landmark, is sure to send a shiver up your spine. In the film the station and BBQ joint was run by the character of Drayton Sawyer, the head of a family of cannibals who offered their own specialty of human chili to unsuspecting customers. Mmmmmm.
About four miles south of Highway 71 in Bastrop, the retro-renovated station used in the film is now known as the We Slaughter Barbecue. But don’t worry, if you stop for lunch you’ll be served much more traditional brisket plates than the previous fictional owner offered. In fact, it’s really good barbecue, so you can check out the fun location and check lunch off your list at the same time.
Any cult classic lover will have a heyday inside the gift shop filled with horror memorabilia, toys, shirts and souvenirs.
The owners opened the location as a “bed and barbeque” for those who dare to stay past sundown. Guests can sleep in one of the small cabins out in back of the station. Each cabin sleeps three adults . . . so no one has to brave a night at the location alone. And of course the tiny cabins are decorated with blood red walls . . . maybe so stains won’t show?
At the time I’m writing this, the cabins are $129 per night, or slightly less if you’re brave enough to stay multiple nights.
Outside of the station sits an abandoned van that is nearly identical to the van owned by some of the unfortunate customers in the movie, and the owners have recently acquired the actual Black Maria semi truck from the original Texas Chainsaw Massacre as well.
If you’re planning to attend the “Cult Classic Convention” in Bastrop this coming March (2023), this would be an ideal place to stay. But be sure to send a postcard to let loved ones know where you are . . . just in case they have to search for you later.
Location:
1073 State Highway 304
Bastrop, Texas
www.texasgasstation.com
Historic Texas Courthouse Ghost Linked to Murders
I was considering what my first October post should be this year . . . a ghost story, a fascinating “story behind the stones” of old cemeteries, a thrilling story from Texas history, or a historic site. Why not all of the above? If you travel to Coryell County, it’s all in one place.
Workers at the Coryell County Courthouse in Gatesville have felt an ‘other-worldly’ presence for years: cold breezes through the county clerk’s office, an occasional firm tap on the shoulder and even furniture being re-arranged in the middle of the night. Locals have dubbed the courtly ghost ‘Elroy’ because they aren’t certain who it actually is. But there are theories that the spirit can’t leave the courthouse because of a connection to a sensational 1909 murder right in the courtroom.
It happened over 100 years ago.
In 1908 a 19-year-old young woman named Verna Mabel Ware was assaulted by a 20-year-old-man named John J. Hanes in the Gatesville area. It was alleged that Hanes – reportedly studying pharmacy – drugged chocolates he gave to the girl at a spring picnic and then took advantage of her, resulting in the birth of a child.
He was charged with seduction, as the word ‘rape’ wasn’t used at the time because it was thought to be too harsh.
Hanes reportedly had several male friends lie on the witness stand during his trail.
It’s apparent that the behavior wasn’t unusual at the time, because before his own trial proceedings were finished he sat in the courtroom on February 2, 1909 watching another man named Wiley Mulhouse who was being prosecuted on the same charge. Because the jail was in the basement then, Hanes would have been returning to his cell at the end of the day. The two trials had split the town into separate contentious sides.
Both Ware and Hanes came from respected farming families in the area and had many friends.
Verna, distraught with her situation, stood in the rotunda with her brother Ezra looking through the plate glass window that separated them from the courtroom. Fearing she would never see justice, she decided to take action herself.
She pulled a 38 caliber revolver from her purse and shot through the glass, hitting Hanes three times in the back. He died instantly. As people in the courtroom scattered, Ware continued to fire hitting James J. Smith (age 68) in the head, Dave Ross (age 48) in the arm and back and A. P. Wiley, Jr. in the leg. Only Wiley would survive his wounds.
Initial newspaper accounts reported that the three other wounded men were merely spectators in the courtroom, but local lore hints that they may have been character witnesses for Hanes.
Judge Arnold maintained composure during the incident and directed officials to take Ware downstairs to the jail. Physicians who visited her in her cell declared that she was in a “critical condition of nervous collapse.”
After a few days in jail formal charges were made of three counts of murder and one for carrying a pistol. Her bond was set at $7,500, and was paid by citizens of the community who sympathized with Ware and her situation.
The trail began late in 1909 and continued until February when she was declared not guilty due to temporary insanity. Reporters wrote that at times during the proceedings the jury and spectators were moved to tears. She did have to pay a fine for having the gun, however.
So who is the courthouse ghost? Perhaps it is Hanes who was positive he would get away with his transgression, and now is trapped in the courthouse. Perhaps it’s the spirit of someone else. We may not ever know for sure.
But if you visit the Coryell courthouse, be prepared to feel an unseasonable chill in the air.
Now, I’m curious…are you more likely to visit the courthouse because of it’s beauty, or because of its ghost?
Incidentally….
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The jury for the Mulhouse case returned a few days later and returned a guilty verdict with a sentence of two years.
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The three shooting victims are buried in area cemeteries, with nothing on their markers to denote their newsworthy demises.
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In the 1990s a local artist even depicted the courthouse in an oil painting with a shadowy figure peering out of a second floor window over Main Street.
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The year after her trial, Verna Ware married W.R. Eck who adopted her daughter Opal. He unfortunately passed away in 1918.
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Ware remarried, but it didn’t last. She and Opal moved to Utah were Verna passed away in a rest home in 1973.
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And the courthouse? It’s well worth visiting with or without the ghost in attendance. The Beaux Arts beauty was built in 1897-1898 of red and white sandstone from a design of architect Wesley Clark Dodson.
Under Way Once Again: Battleship Texas
This week the USS Texas, the only surviving WWI dreadnought battleship, moved from her longtime berth at the historic San Jacinto Battleground Site to a dry dock in Galveston for major repairs.
A veteran of two world wars, the Texas has a spectacular service record that defies belief. So happy to witness her safe journey today, escorted by local boaters, dolphins, pelicans, sea turtles and other wildlife that seemed to take a great interest in the goings-on.
I viewed her passage from the end of the Texas City Dike, the longest and-made fishing pier in the world, stretching 5.3 miles out into the Gulf. A couple of thousand other enthusiasts visited and shared stories during the hours-long wait for her appearance. It was more than worth the wait! We cheered as she slowly passed by, and was greeted by cannon fire salute from a spirited group of re-enactors.
Now the Texas will remain in a Galveston dry dock receiving repairs and TLC, while her final destination in Texas is decided!
Visit Texas’ Own Hank the Cowdog
“Every ranch pickup ought to have at least one cow dog in the back,
barking at every passing truck.” – Hank the Cowdog, Ranch Life Book No. 1
I had to smile when I read that this Friday is National Dog Appreciation Day . . . because in my world, every day is dog appreciation day!
And as a Texan, what better dog to send some appreciation to than the star of the humorous mystery novel series Hank the Cow Dog.
If you aren’t familiar with Hank, you’re in for a treat. This hysterical cow dog, or “Head of Ranch Security” as he prefers to be called, has a slew of doggone fun adventures among other characters that include Pete the Barn Cat, Slim Chance and Sally May – all created by Texas Literary Hall of Fame inductee John R. Erickson.
The books have sold over 9 million worldwide! Pretty darn good for an old dog! My daughter and I read dozens of them when she was little, and I’ve lost count of how many I’ve gifted to other kids.
Do you have to be a kid or a Texan to get a kick out of Hank’s stories? Nope! People as far away as Taiwan are fans. But as long as you’re reading one, why not read it aloud to the nearest child? That will brighten both your days!
Erickson, whose hometown is Perryton, grew up in the Panhandle so his description of characters and written version of a Texas twang ring true. He got his literary start with San Angelo’s Livestock Weekly in the 1980s, mentored by another Texas writer named Elmer Kelton.
Being a long time fan of these books, if you think I made it a point to stop on a recent trip to San Angelo just to see an ode to Hank . . . well, you’d be right. A bronze statue of the Lone Star State’s beloved canine sits on a ledge in Heritage Park at the corner of West Twohig and Oakes Streets. Sculpted by San Antonio artist Raul Ruiz in 2018, he looks right at home with the other features of the pocket park displayed to honor the ranching and agricultural heritage of the state.
There’s a sculpture of a rancher and his trusty horse, native plants, a vintage cistern system and plenty of space to sit for a spell in the shade of a leaf-shaped overhang that provides an escape from the Texas sun. The park is open to the public daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
If you want to make a quick visit to one more spot in town honoring Lone Star literature, swing by the mural by Stylie Read of Elmer Stephen Kelton – Erickson’s mentor – author of over 50 western novels. It’s at 118 South Chadbourne Street.
Now that school’s back in session, if your child is looking to add to their library list, they might just want to check out one of the over 70 stories about this scruffy, scrappy hound. The Texas tails…um, tales… are worth howling about.
Beaumont’s Giant Hydrant – The Stuff of Doggie Dreams
If you travel with your dog, this might be their favorite Texas roadside attraction – a 24-foot, Dalmation-spotted fire hydrant in Beaumont. Sure to make tails wag in anticipation!
Designed as the World’s Largest Fire Hydrant, the giant fiberglass structure reinforced with 1,000 feet of steel was created at Disneyland by the Walt Disney Company to promotion the 1999 re-release of the animated classic “101 Dalmations.” It weighs an incredible 4,500 pounds and can blast 1,500 gallons of water a minute. Yep – it’s actually a working fire hydrant.
The adorable painted black and white Dalmation pattern is actually copyrighted by Walt Disney. Spots can be serious business!
But how in the heck did this thing of doggy-dreams end up in Texas? Partially due to the fact that it was provided with a place of honor right outside of the Official Fire Museum of Texas, Beaumont was chosen from 300 U.S. cities to be its permanent home.
Since its installation, another giant hydrant in South Carolina has surpassed its height record by 40 feet. But while that one may now hold the “tallest” designation, Beaumont’s own Disney-esque version is still the World’s Largest Working Fire Hydrant.
And so it sits, just outside of downtown Beaumont, as a beacon for all Disney fans, dogs and dog lovers. It shares a small park across the street from the Fire Museum with the Firemen’s Memorial and a few small “mini me” spotted hydrants.
Visit this unusual attraction for yourself at 219 Main Street in Beaumont. And while you’re there be sure to check out the fascinating collection and displays at the Fire Museum.
23 Things to Do on a Rainy Day in Galveston
The best laid plans . . . just might have to be “adjusted” due to unexpected weather. If you’re in Galveston on vacation and the clouds try to rain on your parade – don’t worry. There are plenty of ways to entertain yourself, your friends and family inside. Here are a few ideas to consider.
As always, be sure to call ahead to confirm location hours and if they are open as the weather may be a factor to their site as well.
Paid parking on the island is handled through the “paybyphone” app, and you’ll simplify your visit by setting it up ahead of time. Download the app, set it up with your license plate and credit card number and you’re good to go!
GALVESTON RAILROAD MUSEUM
2602 Santa Fe Place, 409-765-5700
https://galvestonrrmuseum.org
Open Daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Admission
Free parking in the rear lot; app-paid street parking and paid lot parking alongside building.
Interesting museum about the history of rail travel. Covered walkways between railcars outside. Explore open rail cars from different eras, including the historic Bonnie Brook Rail Car once owned by comedian/actor Jackie Gleason.
OCEAN STAR OFFSHORE DRILLING RIG & MUSEUM
20th Street & Harborside, 409-766-7827
https://www.oceanstaroec.com/museum/
Open Daily (except Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve & Christmas Day) from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Admission
Paid parking lots, or app-paid street parking along the Strand
The Ocean Star is retired jack-up drilling rig that operated in the Gulf of Mexico from 1969 to 1984 and drilled over 200 wells during that timeframe. In 1995, the OEC purchased the Ocean Star, and after lengthy refurbishment, opened it as a museum in 1997.
The museum is designed to be a self-guided facility with videos, information, interactive exhibits throughout, and takes most visitors about 1.5 hours to tour completely.
BRYAN MUSEUM
1315 21st Street, 409-632-7685
https://thebryanmuseum.org
Closed Monday & Tuesday. Other days open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Thursdays until 7 p.m.)
Admission
Free onsite parking for visitors off Avenue M, and street parking surrounding museum.
The Bryan Collection is the home of one of the world’s largest collections of historical artifacts, documents, and artwork relating to Texas and the American West.
AXECADE
2217 The Strand, Second Floor
Open every day, 12 p.m. – 2 a.m.
Axe throwing, video games & more.
1892 BISHOP’S PALACE
1402 Broadway, 409-762-2475
https://www.galvestonhistory.org/sites/1892-bishops-palace
Self-guided tours daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last ticket sold at 4 p.m.)
Admission
Free street parking available
Formerly the home of the Gresham family and later owned by the Catholic diocese, it’s one of the most significant Victorian residences in the country.
MOODY MANSION / CHILDREN’S MUSEUM
2618 Broadway, 409-762-7668
https://www.moodymansion.org
Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last tickets sold at 4 p.m.)
Admission
One of the attractions I most often recommend on the island, this beautiful mansion is fully furnished and gives a clear impression of what life for the wealthy was like in Galveston’s Gilded Age.
Be sure to check out the antique car collection on site.
CLAY CUP STUDIOS
2219 Postoffice Street, 409-762-CLAY
https://www.claycupstudios.com/walkin
Check website for days and hours, as they vary.
In addition to walk-in-and-choose projects at this paint-your-own pottery studio, be sure to check their schedule for special classes.
LA KING’S CONFECTIONERY
2323 Strand, 409-762-6100
https://lakingsconfectionery.com
Sunday through Thursday, 11:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.; Friday 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.; Saturday 11:00 to 9:00 p.m.
Old-fashioned candy counter and ice cream parlor. They’re famous for their salt water taffy. Check their website and Facebook page for time of their free taffy pulling demonstrations, using a machine over 100 years old. See something interesting in the candy case? Ask for a free sample. Ice cream is made from Galveston’s original Purity ice cream recipe.
GALVESTON COUNTY MUSEUM
722 21st Street in the courthouse, 409-766-2340
https://galvestoncomuseum.wixsite.com/museum/
Open Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Free admission.
A small but fascinating collection with artifacts from Galveston’s past.
Open for private tours on Tuesday and Thursday – or better yet, schedule a session of their Lockbox Mystery activity, and explore the mystery while solving a puzzling challenge. Ages 8+
ROSENBERG LIBRARY MUSEUM
1900 Storm Exhibit
2310 Sealy Avenue
Monday, Friday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; Tuesday-Thursday, 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sunday closed.Parking is free behind the library and across the street on Sealy Avenue.
A curated gathering of photographs of the aftermath of the 1900 Storm, as well as audio recordings of interviews with storm survivors.
ESCAPE THE ISLAND (Escape Room)
910 21st Street, 409-443-5092
https://escapetheisland.com
Visit their website to book a time. Five different themed escape rooms to choose from will keep your family or group entertained for an hour or so of interactive fun.
SCHLITTERBAHN WATER PARK (indoor section)
2109 Gene Lucas Blvd. (next to Moody Gardens), 409-770-9283
https://www.schlitterbahn.com/galveston/schedule
Admission
Check website for dates and hours
Indoor portion of park is great even on rainy days. Free parking.
MOODY GARDENS RAINFOREST / AQUARIUM / 3D MOVIE THEATER
One Hope Blvd., 409-744-4673
https://www.moodygardens.com/
Admission
Free Parking
Check website for hours and special events, which change seasonally. Fascinating for all ages, their year-round attractions are usually open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
GALVESTON BOOKSHOP
317 23rd Street, 409-750-8200
http://galvestonbookshop.com
Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Street parking available (pay on parking app, see information above)
Wandering through a fully-stocked bookshop is one of my favorite rainy day activities, and this one has selections for everyone in the family. Special section of titles about Galveston, too (including all four of my books). Many local authors like me make sure their books at the GB are personally signed, so they make nice souvenirs and gifts as well.
My books are carried there, too!
GRAND GALVEZ HOTEL GHOST TOUR (all indoor tour)
2024 Seawall, Call ahead to make reservations. 409-765-7721, option 1
Thursdays at 5 p.m. and Fridays at 4 p.m.
Fee.
Led by long time Galvez concierge Melissa Hall, who has gathered stories from staff and guests for years. 90-minute family friendly tour.
GRAND 1894 OPERA HOUSE
2020 Postoffice Street, 409-765-1894
http://www.thegrand.com
Self-guided and guided tours of an exquisite theater from the turn of the last century. Call for details. $5
TOUJOUSE BAR at TREMONT HOUSE
2300 Ships Mechanic Row,409-763-0300
https://www.thetremonthouse.com
Paid valet parking available. Paid (via app – details above) street parking, free after 6 p.m.
Sit at a beautifully carved mahogany bar whose history reaches back over a century, and enjoy hand-crafted cocktails. Occasional live music. Call for further details.
PIRATES, LEGENDS OF THE GULF COAST/HAUNTED MAYFIELD MANOR
2313 Harborside Drive, 409-762-6677
https://www.hauntedmayfieldmanor.com
Year-round haunted house with live actors, and a pirate museum (separate attractions.) Admission.
GALVESTON ARTS CENTER
2127 Strand, 409-763-2403
https://www.galvestonartscenter.org
Wednesday through Sunday, Noon to 5 p.m. (Closed on federal holidays)
Free admission
Exhibits a diverse array of artwork in all mediums. Family friendly. Check their website and Facebook page for occasional workshops.
GRAND GALVEZ DAY SPA
2024 Seawall, 409-515-2154
https://www.hotelgalvez.com/galveston-spa
Treat yourself to a little (or a lot of) pampering at Galveston’s “Queen of the Gulf.”
ANTIQUING! Days and hours of antique shops on the island vary widely. Please call each shop or visit their website for specifics.
Antique Warehouse
423 25th Street, 409-762-8620
https://www.facebook.com/AntiqueWarehouseGalveston/
Somewhere in Time
124 20 (at Strand), 409-6844
https://somewhereintimeantiques.com
Big House Antiques
2212 Mechanic, 409-762-0559
https://www.facebook.com/Big-House-Antiques-168427386500765/
St. John Antiques
2001 Postoffice, 409-443-5366
http://www.stjohnantiques.com
Antiques Pavilion
2222 Postoffice, 409-443-5500
https://antiquepaviliongalveston.com
TROLLEY RIDES
https://www.galvestontrolley.com
$1 for adults, accompanied minors free
You can still see some of the sights around the Island – rain or not – on a fun ride along a Seawall Loop, Downtown Loop or Historic Rail Trolley.
Check website for route, times and days, which vary by season.
And of course … if it’s a stormy night on the island, it’s a great time to curl up with my book “Ghosts of Galveston” for some tales of those who’ve never quite left the shores. The version I wrote for middle school readers, “Ghostly Tales of Galveston” is a good choice for families. (Available at the Galveston Bookshop, Tina’s on the Strand, The Admiralty and amazon.com)
When the weather clears, I hope you’ll join me for one of my walking tours. Information on those HERE.