I was considering what my first October post should be this year . . . a ghost story, a fascinating “story behind the stones” of old cemeteries, a thrilling story from Texas history, or a historic site. Why not all of the above? If you travel to Coryell County, it’s all in one place.
Workers at the Coryell County Courthouse in Gatesville have felt an ‘other-worldly’ presence for years: cold breezes through the county clerk’s office, an occasional firm tap on the shoulder and even furniture being re-arranged in the middle of the night. Locals have dubbed the courtly ghost ‘Elroy’ because they aren’t certain who it actually is. But there are theories that the spirit can’t leave the courthouse because of a connection to a sensational 1909 murder right in the courtroom.
It happened over 100 years ago.
In 1908 a 19-year-old young woman named Verna Mabel Ware was assaulted by a 20-year-old-man named John J. Hanes in the Gatesville area. It was alleged that Hanes – reportedly studying pharmacy – drugged chocolates he gave to the girl at a spring picnic and then took advantage of her, resulting in the birth of a child.
He was charged with seduction, as the word ‘rape’ wasn’t used at the time because it was thought to be too harsh.
Hanes reportedly had several male friends lie on the witness stand during his trail.
It’s apparent that the behavior wasn’t unusual at the time, because before his own trial proceedings were finished he sat in the courtroom on February 2, 1909 watching another man named Wiley Mulhouse who was being prosecuted on the same charge. Because the jail was in the basement then, Hanes would have been returning to his cell at the end of the day. The two trials had split the town into separate contentious sides.
Both Ware and Hanes came from respected farming families in the area and had many friends.
Verna, distraught with her situation, stood in the rotunda with her brother Ezra looking through the plate glass window that separated them from the courtroom. Fearing she would never see justice, she decided to take action herself.
She pulled a 38 caliber revolver from her purse and shot through the glass, hitting Hanes three times in the back. He died instantly. As people in the courtroom scattered, Ware continued to fire hitting James J. Smith (age 68) in the head, Dave Ross (age 48) in the arm and back and A. P. Wiley, Jr. in the leg. Only Wiley would survive his wounds.
Initial newspaper accounts reported that the three other wounded men were merely spectators in the courtroom, but local lore hints that they may have been character witnesses for Hanes.
Judge Arnold maintained composure during the incident and directed officials to take Ware downstairs to the jail. Physicians who visited her in her cell declared that she was in a “critical condition of nervous collapse.”
After a few days in jail formal charges were made of three counts of murder and one for carrying a pistol. Her bond was set at $7,500, and was paid by citizens of the community who sympathized with Ware and her situation.
The trail began late in 1909 and continued until February when she was declared not guilty due to temporary insanity. Reporters wrote that at times during the proceedings the jury and spectators were moved to tears. She did have to pay a fine for having the gun, however.
So who is the courthouse ghost? Perhaps it is Hanes who was positive he would get away with his transgression, and now is trapped in the courthouse. Perhaps it’s the spirit of someone else. We may not ever know for sure.
But if you visit the Coryell courthouse, be prepared to feel an unseasonable chill in the air.
Now, I’m curious…are you more likely to visit the courthouse because of it’s beauty, or because of its ghost?
Incidentally….
The jury for the Mulhouse case returned a few days later and returned a guilty verdict with a sentence of two years.
The three shooting victims are buried in area cemeteries, with nothing on their markers to denote their newsworthy demises.
In the 1990s a local artist even depicted the courthouse in an oil painting with a shadowy figure peering out of a second floor window over Main Street.
The year after her trial, Verna Ware married W.R. Eck who adopted her daughter Opal. He unfortunately passed away in 1918.
Ware remarried, but it didn’t last. She and Opal moved to Utah were Verna passed away in a rest home in 1973.
And the courthouse? It’s well worth visiting with or without the ghost in attendance. The Beaux Arts beauty was built in 1897-1898 of red and white sandstone from a design of architect Wesley Clark Dodson.
This week the USS Texas, the only surviving WWI dreadnought battleship, moved from her longtime berth at the historic San Jacinto Battleground Site to a dry dock in Galveston for major repairs.
A veteran of two world wars, the Texas has a spectacular service record that defies belief. So happy to witness her safe journey today, escorted by local boaters, dolphins, pelicans, sea turtles and other wildlife that seemed to take a great interest in the goings-on.
I viewed her passage from the end of the Texas City Dike, the longest and-made fishing pier in the world, stretching 5.3 miles out into the Gulf. A couple of thousand other enthusiasts visited and shared stories during the hours-long wait for her appearance. It was more than worth the wait! We cheered as she slowly passed by, and was greeted by cannon fire salute from a spirited group of re-enactors.
Now the Texas will remain in a Galveston dry dock receiving repairs and TLC, while her final destination in Texas is decided!
“Every ranch pickup ought to have at least one cow dog in the back,
barking at every passing truck.” – Hank the Cowdog, Ranch Life Book No. 1
I had to smile when I read that this Friday is National Dog Appreciation Day . . . because in my world, every day is dog appreciation day!
And as a Texan, what better dog to send some appreciation to than the star of the humorous mystery novel series Hank the Cow Dog.
If you aren’t familiar with Hank, you’re in for a treat. This hysterical cow dog, or “Head of Ranch Security” as he prefers to be called, has a slew of doggone fun adventures among other characters that include Pete the Barn Cat, Slim Chance and Sally May – all created by Texas Literary Hall of Fame inductee John R. Erickson.
The books have sold over 9 million worldwide! Pretty darn good for an old dog! My daughter and I read dozens of them when she was little, and I’ve lost count of how many I’ve gifted to other kids.
Do you have to be a kid or a Texan to get a kick out of Hank’s stories? Nope! People as far away as Taiwan are fans. But as long as you’re reading one, why not read it aloud to the nearest child? That will brighten both your days!
Erickson, whose hometown is Perryton, grew up in the Panhandle so his description of characters and written version of a Texas twang ring true. He got his literary start with San Angelo’s Livestock Weekly in the 1980s, mentored by another Texas writer named Elmer Kelton.
Being a long time fan of these books, if you think I made it a point to stop on a recent trip to San Angelo just to see an ode to Hank . . . well, you’d be right. A bronze statue of the Lone Star State’s beloved canine sits on a ledge in Heritage Park at the corner of West Twohig and Oakes Streets. Sculpted by San Antonio artist Raul Ruiz in 2018, he looks right at home with the other features of the pocket park displayed to honor the ranching and agricultural heritage of the state.
There’s a sculpture of a rancher and his trusty horse, native plants, a vintage cistern system and plenty of space to sit for a spell in the shade of a leaf-shaped overhang that provides an escape from the Texas sun. The park is open to the public daily from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.
If you want to make a quick visit to one more spot in town honoring Lone Star literature, swing by the mural by Stylie Read of Elmer Stephen Kelton – Erickson’s mentor – author of over 50 western novels. It’s at 118 South Chadbourne Street.
Now that school’s back in session, if your child is looking to add to their library list, they might just want to check out one of the over 70 stories about this scruffy, scrappy hound. The Texas tails…um, tales… are worth howling about.
If you travel with your dog, this might be their favorite Texas roadside attraction – a 24-foot, Dalmation-spotted fire hydrant in Beaumont. Sure to make tails wag in anticipation!
Designed as the World’s Largest Fire Hydrant, the giant fiberglass structure reinforced with 1,000 feet of steel was created at Disneyland by the Walt Disney Company to promotion the 1999 re-release of the animated classic “101 Dalmations.” It weighs an incredible 4,500 pounds and can blast 1,500 gallons of water a minute. Yep – it’s actually a working fire hydrant.
The adorable painted black and white Dalmation pattern is actually copyrighted by Walt Disney. Spots can be serious business!
But how in the heck did this thing of doggy-dreams end up in Texas? Partially due to the fact that it was provided with a place of honor right outside of the Official Fire Museum of Texas, Beaumont was chosen from 300 U.S. cities to be its permanent home.
Since its installation, another giant hydrant in South Carolina has surpassed its height record by 40 feet. But while that one may now hold the “tallest” designation, Beaumont’s own Disney-esque version is still the World’s Largest Working Fire Hydrant.
And so it sits, just outside of downtown Beaumont, as a beacon for all Disney fans, dogs and dog lovers. It shares a small park across the street from the Fire Museum with the Firemen’s Memorial and a few small “mini me” spotted hydrants.
Visit this unusual attraction for yourself at 219 Main Street in Beaumont. And while you’re there be sure to check out the fascinating collection and displays at the Fire Museum.
The best laid plans . . . just might have to be “adjusted” due to unexpected weather. If you’re in Galveston on vacation and the clouds try to rain on your parade – don’t worry. There are plenty of ways to entertain yourself, your friends and family inside. Here are a few ideas to consider.
As always, be sure to call ahead to confirm location hours and if they are open as the weather may be a factor to their site as well.
Paid parking on the island is handled through the “paybyphone” app, and you’ll simplify your visit by setting it up ahead of time. Download the app, set it up with your license plate and credit card number and you’re good to go!
Free parking in the rear lot; app-paid street parking and paid lot parking alongside building.
Interesting museum about the history of rail travel. Covered walkways between railcars outside. Explore open rail cars from different eras, including the historic Bonnie Brook Rail Car once owned by comedian/actor Jackie Gleason.
Open Daily (except Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve & Christmas Day) from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Admission
Paid parking lots, or app-paid street parking along the Strand
The Ocean Star is retired jack-up drilling rig that operated in the Gulf of Mexico from 1969 to 1984 and drilled over 200 wells during that timeframe. In 1995, the OEC purchased the Ocean Star, and after lengthy refurbishment, opened it as a museum in 1997.
The museum is designed to be a self-guided facility with videos, information, interactive exhibits throughout, and takes most visitors about 1.5 hours to tour completely.
Closed Monday & Tuesday. Other days open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (Thursdays until 7 p.m.)
Admission
Free onsite parking for visitors off Avenue M, and street parking surrounding museum.
The Bryan Collection is the home of one of the world’s largest collections of historical artifacts, documents, and artwork relating to Texas and the American West.
Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. (last tickets sold at 4 p.m.)
Admission
One of the attractions I most often recommend on the island, this beautiful mansion is fully furnished and gives a clear impression of what life for the wealthy was like in Galveston’s Gilded Age.
Be sure to check out the antique car collection on site.
Sunday through Thursday, 11:00 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.; Friday 11:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.; Saturday 11:00 to 9:00 p.m.
Old-fashioned candy counter and ice cream parlor. They’re famous for their salt water taffy. Check their website and Facebook page for time of their free taffy pulling demonstrations, using a machine over 100 years old. See something interesting in the candy case? Ask for a free sample. Ice cream is made from Galveston’s original Purity ice cream recipe.
Open Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Free admission.
A small but fascinating collection with artifacts from Galveston’s past.
Open for private tours on Tuesday and Thursday – or better yet, schedule a session of their Lockbox Mystery activity, and explore the mystery while solving a puzzling challenge. Ages 8+
ROSENBERG LIBRARY MUSEUM
1900 Storm Exhibit
2310 Sealy Avenue
Monday, Friday-Saturday, 9 a.m.-6 p.m.; Tuesday-Thursday, 9 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sunday closed.Parking is free behind the library and across the street on Sealy Avenue.
A curated gathering of photographs of the aftermath of the 1900 Storm, as well as audio recordings of interviews with storm survivors.
Visit their website to book a time. Five different themed escape rooms to choose from will keep your family or group entertained for an hour or so of interactive fun.
SCHLITTERBAHN WATER PARK (indoor section)
2109 Gene Lucas Blvd. (next to Moody Gardens), 409-770-9283
Check website for hours and special events, which change seasonally. Fascinating for all ages, their year-round attractions are usually open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Street parking available (pay on parking app, see information above)
Wandering through a fully-stocked bookshop is one of my favorite rainy day activities, and this one has selections for everyone in the family. Special section of titles about Galveston, too (including all four of my books). Many local authors like me make sure their books at the GB are personally signed, so they make nice souvenirs and gifts as well.
My books are carried there, too!
GRAND GALVEZ HOTEL GHOST TOUR(all indoor tour)
2024 Seawall, Call ahead to make reservations. 409-765-7721, option 1
Thursdays at 5 p.m. and Fridays at 4 p.m.
Fee.
Led by long time Galvez concierge Melissa Hall, who has gathered stories from staff and guests for years. 90-minute family friendly tour.
Paid valet parking available. Paid (via app – details above) street parking, free after 6 p.m.
Sit at a beautifully carved mahogany bar whose history reaches back over a century, and enjoy hand-crafted cocktails. Occasional live music. Call for further details.
PIRATES, LEGENDS OF THE GULF COAST/HAUNTED MAYFIELD MANOR
You can still see some of the sights around the Island – rain or not – on a fun ride along a Seawall Loop, Downtown Loop or Historic Rail Trolley.
Check website for route, times and days, which vary by season.
And of course … if it’s a stormy night on the island, it’s a great time to curl up with my book “Ghosts of Galveston” for some tales of those who’ve never quite left the shores. The version I wrote for middle school readers, “Ghostly Tales of Galveston” is a good choice for families. (Available at the Galveston Bookshop, Tina’s on the Strand, The Admiralty and amazon.com)
When the weather clears, I hope you’ll join me for one of my walking tours. Information on those HERE.
There’s a tiny town in far west Texas that really gets to the heart of things…and its name says it all: Valentine. The city limits sign lists its population as 217, but anyone who lives there will tell you that’s an exaggeration.
This time of year Valentine’s small post office is bustling, processing thousands of pieces of mail from all over the world – including 30 foreign countries. Surprised? You see, it’s become a tradition to send Valentines through the town’s post office so they receive special, customized romantic post marks that change every year. You can find all the details about that in one of my earlier blog posts, HERE.
Valentine, Texas Post Office
Last year I sent my own round of Valentines through the post office, and this year I was happy to finally get to see the post office halfway between Marfa and Van Horn in person.
There are two versions of the story about how Valentine got its name, and locals happily embrace both. When a Southern Pacific Railroad crew finished laying tracks in 1882, they needed to establish a stopping point for fuel. Since it was Valentine’s Day, they named the station Valentine. Of course, it didn’t hurt that the president of Wells Fargo and a significant stock holder in the railroad was named John Valentine – so they could easily say it was in his honor as well.
Trains began running through the town in 1883, and in 1886 its now infamous post office was established.
By 1890, Valentine boasted about 100 citizens, two saloons, a general store, a hotel and a meat market. Ranchers in the area took advantage of the railroad to ship cattle out of town to markets.
The settlement has the unusual distinction of being the site of the largest earthquake known to have occurred in Texas. At 5:40 a.m. on August 16, 1931 a 6.5 magnitude quake really shook things up, damaging every building and even rotating gravestones in the local cemetery.
By the 1950s though, roadways and trucking were becoming more established and led to the demise of Valentine’s rail depot…and eventually local businesses. One that managed to stay open for years was a small café, where James Dean frequently ate while filming the 1956 movie “Giant” with Elizabeth Taylor and Rock Hudson nearby. Pretty big excitement for a small, dusty town.
James Dean at the Cafe
Today Valentine looks a lot more like a classic ghost town, although it does still have living residents and even its own school. To find the post office you’ll need to drive west all the way (and yes, it only takes a minute) through Valentine past abandoned buildings, and the post office is on your right just at the edge of town.
If you can’t visit Valentine for yourself, mark your calendar to send your mail their way several weeks before their namesake holiday next year. It’s a sweetly unique Texas tradition.
It was a brisk morning on Saturday, but luckily the sun was shining for the annual commemoration ceremony at Galveston’s Trinity Episcopal Cemtery for those lost in the Battle of Galveston. The event was hosted by the Edward Lea Camp of the Sons of Union Veterans of the Civil War. Thank you to everyone who came from near and far to attend.
The ceremony takes place each January and is free for the public to attend. You can find out more about Edward Lea, the naval officer whose marker the event centers around HERE.
The following are some photos from yesterday’s ceremony.
When filling out your travel plans for the new year, remember to save time to explore the areas right around you. Some people call them “staycations” or being a “hometown tourist.” The thing is that we often don’t make time to see some of the most interesting sites near our homes – those that might even top the “to see” list of a visitor – because we think we’ll get around to it sometime.
Guess what? “Some time” can be now!
One of the features of Texas that makes it fascinating to explore is that it’s home to a diversity of cultures as big as the state. Yesterday I took the time to revisit the stunning Sri Meenakshi Temple in Pearland. Luckily for me, it was still bearing many of the colorful decorations of the celebration of the new year.
This is the only temple outside of India dedicated to Meenakshi, who is the Hindu Goddess of Marriage. It’s an exact replica of a temple in Madurai, India, with four smaller corner temples surrounding the main temple.
The concrete structures were produced locally, but all of the granite stonework was carved and imported from India. They are currently having additional pillars carved there to add to the complex.
When visiting, please keep in mind that this is a place of worship. Though they welcome visitors throughout the year, they request that appropriate clothing should be worn as a sign of respect, covering shoulders and knees. Shoes must be removed before going into the temple, but socks are allowed. Wooden shelves at the side entrances can also be used for their temporary storage, or you may leave your shoes on the ground outside of the temple and retrieve them as you leave.
As you enter the large temple through the main doors, move around the interior in a clockwise motion. This signifies keeping “the god” on “the right.” Inside are four shrines dedicated to Shiva, Meenakshi, Vishnu and Lakshmi. In Hinduism there is a “pantheon of gods,” symbolizing many concepts and Hindus pray to them as their favorite or personal dieties.
Photography is permitted, but as with any place of worship, please try not to be intrusive of those who are there to pray.
After visiting the temples and taking in the remarkable architecture, follow one of the sidewalks behind the temple complex to the Peacock Sanctuary. The Indian Peafowl is the national bird of India, and the beautiful specimens that live here wander around an enclosure that can be viewed from benches surrounding it. My grandmother used to have peacocks and (although they can be obnoxiously loud early in the morning!) they always hold a place in my heart.
A Visitors Center is open from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. on weekends, and if you are interested in learning more about the culture this is the time to visit. There is also an on site cafeteria that’s open to the public on weekends and serves authentic vegetarian fare. Visitors can purchase tokens and use them to pay for their meals.
Several years ago, I took my young Girl Scout troop, and one of the temple priests invited them to sit on a rug with him while he explained some of the things they were seeing and hearing. What a wonderful experience!
Remember that although it may feel a bit awkward to step into an unfamiliar setting, as long as you are respectful of the people and culture the space serves, they openly welcome visitors.
Check the Temple’s Facebook page for the latest updates on visiting days and hours.
What are some of the places in your hometown that you’ve never taken the time to see for yourself?
The motto of Junction, Texas is “Land of Living Waters” for a very good reason. About 300 miles of running rivers, natural springs and flowing streams surround the small town.
But one of the features most photographed by passing tourists has nothing at all to do with water. It’s a Christmas tree (that stays up year-round) constructed entirely of antlers of white tail deer.
Sitting on Main Street right in the middle of town the tree has likely made drivers of countless cars traveling through the town hit the brakes in a “What was that!” reflex.
The unusual roadside attraction was created in 1968 by the Kimble (County) Business and Professional Women’s Club of Junction to celebrate the hunting heritage and history of the area.
It required hundreds of the antlers to reach its height of 12 feet.
Is it worth driving hundreds of miles to see? Well, um…no. But the nearby scenic overlook and park situated by the river are definitely worth a stop, so why not include the tree while you’re there? And anyone who knows me knows what a kick I get out of quirky roadside attractions.
When Brian Clowdus, the producer of the “Christmas Carol Experience” and other live “experience” performances, invited my family to attend, I quickly accepted. I had heard great things about his “Sleepy Hollow” production during October in the same town, so was anxious to see one of the shows for myself.
Clowdus is known for his site-specific, immersive, environmental theatrical experiences throughout the country. It’s the furthest thing from “sitting back and watching the action” that you can imagine.
The Christmas Carol Experience takes place in Granbury’s Dora Lee Langdon Mansion, which played a vital part adding to the authenticity of the scenes. Imagine wandering from room to room in a historic home and being enthralled with the conversations at Fezziwig’s Christmas party, in the home of Bob Cratchit, and even out to a courtyard which was transformed into an eerily lit cemetery for the funeral scene. The Victorian setting added to the feeling of stepping back in time and right into the Dickens classic.
If you’re lucky enough to go, you won’t just be watching, however. Audiences are limited to 50 visitors for each performance so that the entire cast and audience fits comfortably in each space, interacting, laughing together and learning the meaning of a life well spent. The small group makes the experience seem more like an intimate evening with friends.
Our group included mostly adults, but the ages ranged from about 8-80 and everyone seemed to find delight in the evening.
One of the things that impressed me was that a mere cast of five actors and two techs miraculously brought this fully immersive experience to life. How do you have a Christmas Carol experience without even a Tiny Tim? Let me let you on a secret…you won’t even miss the little guy! My daughter, a thespian herself, was impressed with what a full performance it felt like with so few people involved. The talented actors transfixed us with their performances, and had us gladly answering questions and laughing at improvisational comments interjected into the performance. They deftly managed to engage everyone in the action without breaking character or distracting from the storyline. Special lighting, sound effects and music enhanced each scene.
Our ticket included the VIP experience. Though I didn’t know exactly what to expect, it was enjoyable. Attendees with these tickets ordered free drinks (wine, cocoa and a special cocktail called the “Scrooge” (that will warm even the iciest heart) in a souvenir mug, and were ushered into the home a few minutes earlier than the rest of the audience to join members of the cast for cookies, games and singing Christmas carols. The cast members are so enjoyable and engaging, even the grumpiest of attendees found themselves joining in (even my husband…and that’s saying something!).
The evening ended in a flurry of snow that was greeted with gasps from the delighted visitors.
The month-long experience is quickly selling out due to its popularity and the limited audience size. If you miss out on this opportunity, I’ll see you at Clowdus’ next show – whatever it is!
VIP tickets $69, General admission $29-49
Ample, free parking is available across the street at the visitor’s center, and just a block from the welcoming Granbury Town Square, where the restaurant options are numerous and tempting. There was another special event on the Square, “Living Christmas Cards, the same night as we attended. If you find yourself in a similar scheduling situation, it’s advisable to arrive early to find parking. It’s also wise to make dinner reservations an any of the restaurants on the square as the Christmas spirit has this small Texas town bustling with locals and tourists.
It’s apparent that the behavior wasn’t unusual at the time, because before his own trial proceedings were finished he sat in the courtroom on February 2, 1909 watching another man named Wiley Mulhouse who was being prosecuted on the same charge. Because the jail was in the basement then, Hanes would have been returning to his cell at the end of the day. The two trials had split the town into separate contentious sides.
She pulled a 38 caliber revolver from her purse and shot through the glass, hitting Hanes three times in the back. He died instantly. As people in the courtroom scattered, Ware continued to fire hitting James J. Smith (age 68) in the head, Dave Ross (age 48) in the arm and back and A. P. Wiley, Jr. in the leg. Only Wiley would survive his wounds.
So who is the courthouse ghost? Perhaps it is Hanes who was positive he would get away with his transgression, and now is trapped in the courthouse. Perhaps it’s the spirit of someone else. We may not ever know for sure.
